Search results

The leadwork is for under the window (you have some lead already). This is very much DIY able as job. I have done a few roofs now (including velux), due to getting sky high quotes for what were relatively simple jobs. Between this forum and YT, there is plenty of advice/tution to be had. Good...

My brother used something he bought from Amazon to tank the wall, was fine for the a week or two, but was short lived. I'd be trying to stop the water from the outside first.

What about cladding the wall, once you've put a batten on and boards, this will protrude another 50mm from the wall and may stop the fillet getting soaked.

Coming from gas to induction... I find the selecting the 'ring' then the temperature control up or down a bit of faff, lots of touch screen clicks, especially when I want to turn one ring off when the others are on. Personally I'd buy one with a knob next time. Also there merest touch on the...

I did a old brick patio before and used sika fastfix resin as the jointing compound, although its a tad expensive, that said you can get out of date pots from FBM cheap. That said I would probably do the next in a dry mix of sand and cement brushed in, if the joints are large you could ram the...

I had the stepped brickwork (around windows, in my old house) the old window/door frames were usually sat in these rebates, and it was common to not see much frame from the outside. Looks like you have a wooden lintel on the inside brickwork, you might have stone/brickwork on outside, take a...

LTP Matt stone sealer How did you do the jointing on your floor? Dry mix brushed in?

(y) are the wooden beams, sections of wood, or plaster lookie-likey?

Why didn't you just keep going with the bricks right up to the door? If there is no dpc under the blocks you may get moisture making it's way up through any wooden step. You could cement/glue down some STS board first, then wood to this. What about brick slips?

Might be better if you can post some photos.

I try for something like 15mm gap, usually have to cut the small ones down slightly, to get everything even. once down, I sometimes go around with grinder to correct any non-parallel tiles.

I used 50mm ones for solid oak to joists, using a nailer. Expect that you may have to punch the odd cleat in by hand here and there, they don't always go in 100%. I also used laminate flooring clamps to bring troublesome boards tight. I would also get a cheap plug cutter for any areas where...

Ditra mat will sit on a very thin bed of adhesive (use small notched trowel), as you press it into the adhesive, so more like a mm.

No soil behind house walls. They should be cavity.

Ditra is around 3mm thick.

Have an area of old laid tarmac, use to park cars on etc. It's in good condition, but I don't like the look of it. I would like to have a gravel area instead. I'm presuming I can't just put gravel on top of the tarmac? thinking of granite chipping 20mm ish. Would gravel grids work, or would...

You might need to take a wider photo, so we can see it with surroundings.(y)

I'm no plumber/spark, but I see you have two zone valves, think you need two thermostats, one for each valve. Then you can run the house rads and UFH separately.

Looks like you have a bit of wet wood/rot on the joist ends, slide in a strip DPC (as the bitumen might have failed) and repair/replace the joist end. I used rockwool insulation in my floor, then covered the whole floor in building paper (bitumen layered) before nailing down solid wood floor...

Cold bridging maybe the cause, warm inside temps meeting cold outside temps. Cold water pipes frequently have condensation around them, in cold weather, gas pipes can also. Breeched DPM/DPC is frequently a culprit. Are you planning on removing the concrete surround when you get your new door?