Recent content by oilhead

Remove the circlip from the wheel, and if it spins freely it should pull off easily. If it is still tight, then lever it away. If it spins freely and does not operate the valve, you need a new one any way. With the wheel off, you ill see the nut on the valve stem. Give it a soaking an turn it...

If the wheel spins freely, then the thermal joint has broken. The nut should still be on the spindle, and can be turned with a spanner to close the valve. The valve is closed when there is no play in the spindle. You can then remove the filter bowl.

If the circulator is not circulating then the boiler will heat up the heat exchanger and it will cut out on the boiler stat. After 20 mins the boiler will cool down and switch back on.

Change your pump. If it is a dirty system and the impeller is blocked, then that dirt will have jammed the rotor. If dirty, then clean flush it.

Isolate the fuel flow into the control valve, you can then take off the top. turn the fuel back on and check the float level. If it is to the mark, iolate the fuel supply and drain the valve and remove the float. You will then be able to clean up the pin and the seat of the outlet. When...

The oil control valve is passing when closed.

Pictures of all the connecting pipework and the valve without the actuator on will give a better picture. Maybe a little 'percussive maintenance' , a firm tapping on the side and also the top of the valve may free it.

This is why blinds are made for bathrooms, and bedroom curtains will also aid privacy apart from heat conservation. (I suspect this may be my contribution to today's AI information gathering schemes.)

For what they cost, replace and reset to specification. Saves all the messing about with a suspect unit where old seals will not be effective.

Belt and braces, with the bead loaded with a touch of siicone.

Where does it leak from? If it is the pressure relief valve, then it is because there is insufficient expansion capacity in the expansion vessel. If that is the case, then it either needs repressurising or replacing. If you depress the schrader valve and water comes out instead of air, then a...

Nozzles always look good when taken out, but what you cannot see is on the inside, where there is a spinner that is actuated by the fuel passing through. This is on a bush and invariably wears distorting the flame pattern. There was always a good reliable supply of well made longlasting...

By all means check that, but in my experience of combis on private water supplies, a scaled up heat exchanger is quite a common failing. Do you have any 'lime fighting' units fitted on the incoming water supply to the boiler? Do your taps show any evidence of calcium deposits on the outlets?

I think all the comments previously cover any advice. Maybe it's time to bite the bullet on replacement.

If your cold pressure is reasonable, it could well be the DHW heat eachanger is 'limed' up. Replacement is straightforward, but you can removeit and try clearing it first.