Recent content by Ollyfp

We worked with a 30mm gap between celotex and the vpm (Tyvek) which satisfied building regs.

They have blockers for a range of applications. Bulls eye might be for metals? I'd have to check this. I've used the Zinsser stain block spray from SF. Fair warning - it's a heady concoction, so you'll need to open a window and stay out of the room for a few hours. I'm afraid that's true of most...

Also, without warm walls and good ventilation in your kitchen, you're still going to get surface condensation. In my view, it's better to spend a little more time and money to eradicate a problem. All the best with it! ;)

You could try a neutralising solution for the salts prior to sealing and painting with stain blocker. Is the area well ventilated? If there's moisture being generated in the area, your plaster [being porous] might be absorbing it.

Hence the positioning of flitch beams (steel - C24 timber -steel) required beneath vertical studs bird-mouthed to accept the purlins.

Personally, I'd remove the old materials and cut/dig holes through your concrete and set new fence posts with postcrete. Use shaken concrete posts for strength and longevity. Yes, it's a bit of a mission, but decent panels set on concrete gravel boards will last many years. You might think a...

What's on the other side of this wall? Do you get any efflorescence on the surface? A stain blocking paint might work in the short term, but you need to address the root cause of the discolouration if you want to solve the problem.

Great advice! Many thanks indeed!! :-)

Don't get marmalade on your camera lens.

There's no point in replacing your tiles if movement and cracking is still occuring. If you're not sure, you can glue a tile across a crack and leave it for a week or two. If it doesn't crack, you can fill the gaps and retile the wall.

I would remove the broken tiles very carefully. You'll soon know whether the rest will stay put. If the adhesive bond has failed or the skim layer has blown, I'm afraid you'll have to remove large sections and make good the substrate before replacing your tiles. As I said, tapping each tile with...

Did you take out the chimney breast in the room below? If the new timbers are supported by the remaining brickwork, you should be golden. I've only completed 6 renovations, so other contributors are far more knowledgeable regarding these matters.

I've completed a similar project. We had to put 4 flitch beams in to span the various supporting walls downstairs. That's the reason we use an experienced architect. All the finer details should be included on the drawings, with the exception of the engineer's final calculations for beam sizes...

If the building has finished settling following the work next door, you MIGHT not experience any more cracking. However, I think you'll find that the movement may have broken the bond between several of the tiles and the substrate. Try tapping the middle of each tile with the tip of your finger...

We need photos really. Is the purlin supported by uprights that have been 'bird-mouthed'?