Recent content by Ollyfp

Yes, those multi material drill bits are excellent... for a while at least. I use the Erbauer ones as they're cheaper. I'm not sure if they are sharpenable?

I had a similar issue a few years back. Our water company actually came out and worked on blasting off the scale that had built up on their side of the boundary. We've had no issues since then. Maybe you could try appealing to their better nature.

Yep, SDS and a small pilot will do it. Standard masonry bits in hammer drills will go through the plaster and then they'll go walkabout.

I'll say it. Speed limits are only required because some men decide that the best way to burn off excess testosterone is to drive like a tw@t. Just go for a run or do some squat thrusts. That'll calm you down boy. Then you can drive with your head on straight. Tell me I'm wrong.

Please tell me you didn't actually eat your dinner out of a gully! I mean, c'mon man, have some pride yeah?

My washing machine STINKS when it's draining. I've cleaned the front thingy, sucked and blown the hell out of all the pipes with my wet vac, cleaned the rubber gasket thoroughly and I've checked the sink trap and exit pipes. I've also run the wash cycle with bleach (okay, I was getting...

Have you tried swearing at it? Just a thought.

You'll need to make sure you've got a damp membrane of some sort under your new threshold of course. Two part epoxy resin provides good resistance, but it's quite expensive. Don't go putting big screws through your oak threshold into the concrete floor. The screws will rust and you'll get dark...

One more thing! If the water is getting through to your ceiling, this indicates that your sarking or vpm is either damaged or incorrectly installed. This might be visible from your roof void.

A good roofer will be able to find the cause of the leak quite quickly. It's all about experience, so the older guys are usually the best. My roofer uses a drone to inspect roofs that are difficult to get to without scaffolding. Usual culprits are ridge tiles , chimney flashing and gulleys...

We secured a grant for an ASHP and solar PV. Our house is well insulated, so this new setup works really well for us. The total cost of heating and hot water is circa £1200 per annum, which is much less than the combined cost of electricity and kerosene. A friend of mine added a second oil tank...

We worked with a 30mm gap between celotex and the vpm (Tyvek) which satisfied building regs.

They have blockers for a range of applications. Bulls eye might be for metals? I'd have to check this. I've used the Zinsser stain block spray from SF. Fair warning - it's a heady concoction, so you'll need to open a window and stay out of the room for a few hours. I'm afraid that's true of most...

Also, without warm walls and good ventilation in your kitchen, you're still going to get surface condensation. In my view, it's better to spend a little more time and money to eradicate a problem. All the best with it! ;)

You could try a neutralising solution for the salts prior to sealing and painting with stain blocker. Is the area well ventilated? If there's moisture being generated in the area, your plaster [being porous] might be absorbing it.