Recent content by oscarinnes

....how to get it in there if I can’t get my hands in

To stop the crud dropping out of the chimney breast onto my wood burner I need to fill the void around the flue liner. Trouble is there’s a bracket which makes it practically impossible to get your hands in and stuff anything into that space. Was wondering if there are any expanding foam type...

Confused now - Could do with getting this cleared up as I'd like to start the job ASAP. Can't really see how there would be no benefit whatsoever!? But I'm not in the trade so I wouldn't know.

Thanks for that - the plaster is still in good nick so I will use as little dots as I can. Do I need a continuous bed of adhesive around the perimeter of the wall or not?

I've removed all the old plaster from my chimney breast in my semi-detached and am going to board it out and plaster it. I was thinking also to board the party wall either side of the chimney breast without removing the old plaster thereby creating an extra layer of heat/sound insulation across...

I've removed all the old plaster from my chimney breast in my semi-detached and am going to board it out and plaster it. I was thinking also to board the party wall either side of the chimney breast without removing the old plaster thereby creating an extra layer of heat/sound insulation across...

I can confirm that it is an upstairs bay. When we bought the house 4 years ago we took down all of the upstairs lath/plaster ceilings as they were past it. We then reboarded and skimmed so this (new) ceiling has been in place for at least 3 1/2 years without further cracking - which suggests...

What thickness of steel angle would be needed and where to get one? The problem that I foresee with this solution is that the dip in the joist goes underneath the horizontal of the underlying brickwork - so unless the joist is forced up (possibly cracking the ceiling plaster) then I'm not...

Before we we bought the house there had been water getting in from a blocked gutter/down pipe which has resulted in a bit if rot to one end if the joist so it definitely needs some attention - the question is how much? I would be interested to know how much it cost to get the structural engineer...

I've got a sagging joist (3 " x 4 " x 3.4m) above a bay window. I've only got about 3 1/2 inch drop before the top of the window so I can't get an rsj underneath for support. Any suggestions please with regards to what I can use to support the existing joist without complete replacement?

Forgot to mention that the span is 3m pillar to pillar. I've only really got 3 to 3 3 1/2 inch drop before the top of the window. Not exactly sure what a steel angle is?

I've got a sagging joist (3 " x 4 ") above a bay window. I've only got about 3 1/2 inch drop before the top of the window so I can't get an rsj underneath for support. Any suggestions please with regards to what I can use to support the existing joist without complete replacement?[/u]

Having read some blurb online I am still not sure what type of joint is applicable in this case? If it is as you say then does the second pour butt up to the first pour with no space/filler at all in between the two slabs?

Ok slight mistake with original post - it should read 'unreinforced' floors > 16m2 should have a construction joint. Also when I say alone I mean the good lady and I will be doing the levelling (Freudian slip there :wink). We have already done the storage floor area (6x2m) ourselves with a...

I have a garage floor to do approx 6m x6m. I've read (nhbc technical guidelines) that reinforced floor slabs > 16m2 should have a construction joint. Also, as i have to do it myself i would much prefer to do it in 2 sections anyway to make the job more manageable. The trouble is that i am...