Recent content by Ouch77

putting a shower up against an existing brick wall - wall has been chased for pipes already, and I'm intending to fit a shower PL8 to ensure spacing. I'm wondering if I can fit it directly to the brick, rather than to the tile-backer- this will help with aligning the top of the pipework and...

Thanks all, I think I'll copy @HERTS P&D approach and run JG from the sink supply around the perimeter of the kitchen at low level - this allows me to isolate the spur if it's not used, and also fit a PRV for that and the dishwasher - we have crazy high static water pressure. Plus less chases...

I'm plumbing in our kitchen (no ceiling or walls boarded yet), and we think it prudent to install a cold water supply to the location of the fridge, in case we go for one with a chilled water supply. For those that have fitted these in the past, where is the best place to put the...

An option, less desirable given our desire for something less fiddly to clean, but probably the last resort.

I'd still have to get out of the chase at the top. there's not a lot of guidance regarding notching wall plates for this sort of thing, but (typically) there is a joist in just the wrong place for straight-up chases.

Tile finish on hardiboard or similar. I don't have a problem with cutting chases (it'll be messy in the old brick given their toughness), but assuming vertical, getting out of the top of the chase will be hampered by the wall plate, Horizontal obviously limits the depth to approx 15mm, which...

I'm trying to figure out the best way to get hot & cold water to the right location for a shower room in an extension. The shower is up against the old part of the house, which consists of a cavity brick wall. Conveniently there's an opening through the wall nearby. Inconveniently the cavity...

What order is preferred for walls and screed (with UFH)? I'm using a wet UFH system with 75mm screed over membrane and PIR insulation (PIR is already laid). I have a stud wall (plasterboard over OSB over timber frame) that needs to go in. I can see this going 2 ways: Walls first - makes the...

I'm preparing an area for wet UFH system. The insulation is down, and I'm considering laying a 'decoupling membrane' by Laminon (which helpfully has a grid printed on it to align the pipework to) prior to pipe fitting and screeding. It's sold in 1.2m wide rolls, so will have joints - I...

yeah, I've heard the stories.. whilst it sounds like a cool experiment, I'll leave that for youtubers :)

The guidance is to buff as you apply, doing a board or two width at a time, so I feel a polisher would be too big and cumbersome for the first pass when there's untreated wood next to where I'm polishing. I'm using this site as guidance...

Hi all, We are laying an untreated engineered oak floor, and have chosen to use a hard-wax oil (by Blanchon) to finish it. The directions state it should be brush applied and then buffed in using white cotton cloth or a buffer/polisher with a beige pad.. I've borrowed a DA polisher with a 5"...

thanks for the tip chaps - it will come in useful for adjusting the fill height as the cistern isn't big enough to allow me to rotate the assembly once it's fitted..

Minor rant, but this might help someone in the future. Toilet cistern stopped filling saturday afternoon. Took a look inside, opened up the valve and the little rubber seal inside was perished and had split a little. 20minutes on Google suggests that the seals are available as spares, which...

It looks like a feature, a lot of older properties have external windowcills formed using brick or tile (mine are brick). It also looks like it's been painted in the past, it may be the other windows are also painted, but less worn/weathered. Personally I like the red, and would look to...