Hi, I have a gravity system (hot and cold) and looking to get the best out of it by fitting a water pump for the hot feed. The existing cylinder flange already looks to be an 'S' flange (conveniently) but does look to have too many adapter fittings making it too proud to be effective - or would...
Have a look at this site, https://www.directstoves.com/resources/common-causes-of-damp-in-your-chimney-what-to-do-about-them/
You can get damp even for unused chimney breasts (I know I have the same issue!) due to the salt left behind from when it was used.
Hi
I am looking to create a ‘warm roof’, there is no insulation currently.
Can I attach PIR boards over the rafters to save on cutting them?
The roof is also vented, so how do I accommodate the vents?
Hi
Oil boiler is rumbling every so often - is this air, water or contaminated fuel getting into the burner? I can't pick up any oil leak around the connections.
I was thinking that @oilhead but the stove is 4 port and has 2 pipes running to own cylinder coil (28mm) unpumped and x2 22mm pipes (pumped) running to rads somewhere - I know as rads get warm when pump is running:)
Yes @Madrab I will plan to do that, so pump is on the return (this is an old...
Combi’s sense the flow and use that as a demand for heat - run may be too far / pipes too resistive to the flow to be enough to meet the threshold to trigger the demand? Just a thought.
You will find you’ll need less than you think. I did calcs and for 20 radiator house and it was 26kW - that’s with factoring in hardly any heat insulation (old house), hot water cylinder and few kW loss through pipes; remember you won’t want heat in every room all the time.
When you look at...
The top pipe is the HW valve, but yes it could be for draining purposes still.
I’ve learnt the automatic bypass should be between the flow and return and I may change this arrangement now as I need to move it out the way for a new boiler.
Hi
Trying to work out how my heating is plumbed, why would output of S plan 2 port valves be also bridged by a gate valve (normally shut) ie the heat output from boiler goes to x2 two port valves - one for HW and one for CH, but why provide a means to bypass them?
by the way I have a wood...
Its looking like this is the cause of the problem (completely missed the melted mass of plastic underneath the burner until my better half spotted it!)
Won't fire now, just blowing fuses every time motor is called.
So is this is terminal case i.e. replace the burner (if it is I may as well...