Recent content by PlumbBob

Yeah, I think it’s designed to ‘hang out’ so to speak, instructions aren’t the best. I’ll try and install in a discrete location because it won’t look pretty externally.

Hi, I’m looking to install a through-wall heat exchanger. Walls are 300mm thick, what is neatest way to create a solid frame to extend the external wall out to 450mm? (Inside will be flush) I’m thinking of a timber frame, but a masonry one is preferred but I think that would be too much beyond...

Thanks so with concrete, 2 individual - one for each wall (inner and outer) or 1 for both walls? With the single concrete one for both walls, effectively bridging, would this need a cavity tray too? (Not shaped as per a cavity)

Hi, for cavity wall opening should a concrete or steel lintel be used? Or can either be used? The external wall is rendered so concrete can be covered up.

Thanks all, there is no side outlet on the cylinder, I think I would have to take it from the Surrey Flange.

Hi, I have a gravity system (hot and cold) and looking to get the best out of it by fitting a water pump for the hot feed. The existing cylinder flange already looks to be an 'S' flange (conveniently) but does look to have too many adapter fittings making it too proud to be effective - or would...

Have a look at this site, https://www.directstoves.com/resources/common-causes-of-damp-in-your-chimney-what-to-do-about-them/ You can get damp even for unused chimney breasts (I know I have the same issue!) due to the salt left behind from when it was used.

Are the external walls rendered? For the solid concrete floors, are they damp already?

Hi I am looking to create a ‘warm roof’, there is no insulation currently. Can I attach PIR boards over the rafters to save on cutting them? The roof is also vented, so how do I accommodate the vents?

Hi Oil boiler is rumbling every so often - is this air, water or contaminated fuel getting into the burner? I can't pick up any oil leak around the connections.

I was thinking that @oilhead but the stove is 4 port and has 2 pipes running to own cylinder coil (28mm) unpumped and x2 22mm pipes (pumped) running to rads somewhere - I know as rads get warm when pump is running:) Yes @Madrab I will plan to do that, so pump is on the return (this is an old...

Combi’s sense the flow and use that as a demand for heat - run may be too far / pipes too resistive to the flow to be enough to meet the threshold to trigger the demand? Just a thought.

You will find you’ll need less than you think. I did calcs and for 20 radiator house and it was 26kW - that’s with factoring in hardly any heat insulation (old house), hot water cylinder and few kW loss through pipes; remember you won’t want heat in every room all the time. When you look at...

The top pipe is the HW valve, but yes it could be for draining purposes still. I’ve learnt the automatic bypass should be between the flow and return and I may change this arrangement now as I need to move it out the way for a new boiler.

Showing the 2 port valves bridged, I’m sure this gate valve serves no purpose, and think there should be an automatic bypass between flow and return?