1 of 2 problems,
divertor, actually the wax casule in the divertor
£125 with vat just for the part
or
the systems full of sludge, needs flush full day job 6-8 hours labour
£500ish if done right with chemicals.
to be honest this boiler is now at least 10 years old, and is on a...
these boilers a terrible
heatlines usually leak from a black plastic nut inside the boiler, in a stuffing box on the pin in the divertor valve
nightmare for parts tho cost is unbelievable, and you can't get service kits easy
if it was mine it would be in a skip in 10mins......
sorry...
valve works off ch switch on clock no need for a stat
should be an easy swap for the clock, try a ACL/Drayton brand, back plate is nearly the same and may fit... if not it is easy to switch the back plates between the 2
now for the problem.....
this could be a faulty motor in the 3 way...
i suppose you could access it yourself
it only needs lifting up and the ch knob turning half a turn then refitting
make sure the power is off
alternativley get the guy back who fit pcb to fit it properly
it could possibly work, sunvic are v.poor go for drayton/acl
but......
you can't just replace a stat with a wireless stat, you need a perminant electric supply to the reciever
combustion seals on this boiler are very poor, it may need the front combustion seal changing, especially if the condensate has backed up after freezing in recent weeks
h3- definatly dhw thermistor
l-f is flame detection..... this is usually caused by a blocked condensate, usually the trap in the boiler, they are a poor design, too small
it could be as simple as the filling loop is letting water by, check this buy disconnecting it(silver braided hose, with a tap at each side) if it is passing it will constantly fill the system slowly....
if you disconnect it and it still continues to fill the plate heat exchanger is leaking...
glowworm eng is right i'm afraid
very poor installation, there should be a turret on the boiler with a correct seal and a flue sample point, this looks very dangerous!!
has the pcb been replaced recently?????
if so it is a common fault to put the thermostat knob in upside down, therefore when you put it to maximum its only on about a 1/3 of its power, pcb needs re-fittin with the knob turned 180degrees
the difference between the too:
thermostaticly controlled: constant temp, the shower mixes the right amount of cold and heat to provide the required temp
stabilised: constant heat of the same power, probably high and low....
you regulate the temp with the flow rate of the water passing...