Ideal Isar 24E issue!

[simon007]

Hi,

im new to this forum and like to say hello to everyone!

can somone please advise on an error E- L, i have to turn the boiler off from the main 30 secs and back on, it then works for a while. (did this morning have to go back home to check after work if it is still working).

when this error shows this is the only way i can get it back to run by turning off the main and back on. Rang ideal and they said its PCB board?

is this correct or do i need to check something else?

Thank you very much!

 

[Garfeild]

It usually means the PCB is knackered,especially if its a black one.

however it can also mean the overheat stat is faulty,although its usually on the Icos boilers where the compression connectors have leaked and dribbled down the pipe to the stat.

On the Isar the stat is lower,and out of the way.

Check for a melted patch just right of centre,and/or remove 4 way connector on pcb top left,check for 240v between blue/brown,if present its the PCB.

 

[simon007]

Thanks for the reply Garfield,

after having checked further ive noticed the error code is L-F and when i reset it, it worked only for DHW but no CH and then it display error H 3, but DHW kind of still works!

sorry for the wrong code earlier, but im sure i saw that error first, ah well maybe my eye site.

please advise..

Thanks

 

[pontered]

h3- definatly dhw thermistor

l-f is flame detection..... this is usually caused by a blocked condensate, usually the trap in the boiler, they are a poor design, too small

 

[simon007]

Thanks pontered,

i will clean out the condensate trap, can you tell me where the dhw thermistor is located if possible (a picture would help) and is this something that could be fixed or do i need a new, if so, can i pick this up from the local plumming shop?


Thank you for all your help much appreciated!

 

[ewansdad]

Hi. My mum used to have one of these which was fitted through a grant from the warm front scheme.

I have never encountered a boiler which gave as many problems as this one. It had 3 new pcb's, automatic air vent, 2 pumps, gas valve, diverter valve and various thermistors all in the space of 4 years from new.

In the end we decided with the advice of our heating engineer to cut our losses and get a new boiler ( not ideal).

I dont wish to put a dampener on things but the thing was constant trouble and ours was'nt the only story i heard.

 

[simon007]

h3- definatly dhw thermistor

l-f is flame detection..... this is usually caused by a blocked condensate, usually the trap in the boiler, they are a poor design, too small

Hi Pontered,

please can you advise where dhw thermistor is (is there a way to bypass this).

I have check and cleaned out the condensate trap.

I still get an error >burner light for 2 sec > followed by 7 > and then H 3

Thanks

 

[libby lou lou]

Do you have the manual?, if not, find it online, everything you need is in that.

 

[PEDANTICVINDICTIVEMAN]

Hi. My mum used to have one of these which was fitted through a grant from the warm front scheme.

I have never encountered a boiler which gave as many problems as this one. It had 3 new pcb's, automatic air vent, 2 pumps, gas valve, diverter valve and various thermistors all in the space of 4 years from new.

In the end we decided with the advice of our heating engineer to cut our losses and get a new boiler ( not ideal).

I dont wish to put a dampener on things but the thing was constant trouble and ours was'nt the only story i heard.

Difficult to complain when it was fitted pretty much for free.

 

[simon007]

Do you have the manual?, if not, find it online, everything you need is in that.

ok i have the manual i know where dhw thermistor is, on the manual its says check this- if the values are incorrect then replace it otherwise its a pcb?

"Check resistance using a suitable multimeter
connected across the thermistor’s terminal pins

At 25 oC expect 9,700 - 10,300 Ohms
At 60 oC expect 2,400 - 2,600 Ohms
At 85 oC expect 1,000 - 1,100 Ohms"

my question now is i have multimeter but in manual it says disconnect thermistor wires and remove from boiler and then check for the reading as above, now do i connect multimeter to the disconnected thermistor or the the 2 wires that come out of pcb?

Thanks

 

[mandybbb]

Hi, just wanted to post this as I am new and am at the end of my tether!!!
Like most people had this boiler fitted 2 yrs ago keep it regularly serviced and maintained. I also took a warranty out after the manufacturer one had finished.
I have had no heating or hotwater for around 5 days now, The company I have the warranty with have been the most crappest peaople you can ever deal with, 24 hours of trying to phone with either a hang up, engaged tone ore even just on constant hold for over an hour and 45 mins to be cut off at the end. it has been -6 degrees in my house with 6 people to oaps and a disabled person included in that. the boiler broke down last thursday as i could not stop it from overheating the house, up to around 27 degress soaring temp for this time of year!! then had to shut it down and never worked again. There was water coming out of the bottom of the pipe so called the warranty people and they came out on sunday to say that the main heatexchanger was leaking and needed a new one not to mention a new circuit board and box that send the message to the thermostat. now it is wednesday and still nothing, I wouldnt mind but -6 degrees in side and just as cold outside i might as well be out in the garden shed it would probably be the same temp.
24hours no trying to chase the company no joy at all i think they have just switched the phone lines off even the out of hours service wouldnt answer at 4am this morning. no end in sight of this misery they should be held accountable for the fact i now know this is a manufacturers defect with the seal on the exchanger and should have been recalled. but never was. what am I to do now, 2 days before christmas eve and nothing.
just wondered after this long post whether there is any thing else i can do. please advise thanks

 

[libby lou lou]

Your checking the thermister.

 

[simon007]

Your checking the thermister.

Thanks for all your help, at the end i ended up changing the thermistor (didnt bother checking) bought it from plumb centre for £25.

All seem to be working fine now.

Thanks