Ideal Isar H5 error code

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The error code H5 was flashing on my Ideal Isar boiler. After the initial panic of the clock showing things i had never seen before and sometimes no hot water, i found out from Ideal that the error code H5, which is conveniently not in their installation and servicing book, means that the jumper link was not inserted into the PCB. It somehow works itself out. DOES ANYONE KNOW HOW TO OPEN THE BOILER AND REINSERT IT.
 
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The exact model would help.It's important to get these jumpers onto the correct pins as this determines the boilers performance.If you are not sure then get these checked by a qualified engineer.
 
The exact model would help.It's important to get these jumpers onto the correct pins as this determines the boilers performance.If you are not sure then get these checked by a qualified engineer.

Its an Ideal Isar HE24

I am not sure and i am just trying to save myself some money from what i see as a very minor problem. the clock on my boiler is showing all kinds of things so my guess is somehow this link has worked its way out and is not fully out yet, thats why the connection to the clock is making it show all kinds of things. Thats where i am coming from. when i rang Ideal they said they would send an engineer for £280. That price made me follow it up, ask questions and find out that the jumper link was not inserted into the PCB. I asked if anyone could help and tell me how to do it, not for someone to tell me what i already know i can do
 
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The exact model would help.It's important to get these jumpers onto the correct pins as this determines the boilers performance.If you are not sure then get these checked by a qualified engineer.

Its an Ideal Isar HE24

As your name infers your a gas man so off course your going to tell me to go get it checked by a qualified engineer. Its a bit wrong because this is a DIY forum
 
The exact model would help.It's important to get these jumpers onto the correct pins as this determines the boilers performance.If you are not sure then get these checked by a qualified engineer.

Its an Ideal Isar HE24

I am not sure and i am just trying to save myself some money from what i see as a very minor problem. the clock on my boiler is showing all kinds of things so my guess is somehow this link has worked its way out and is not fully out yet, thats why the connection to the clock is making it show all kinds of things. Thats where i am coming from. when i rang Ideal they said they would send an engineer for £280. That price made me follow it up, ask questions and find out that the jumper link was not inserted into the PCB. I asked if anyone could help and tell me how to do it, not for someone to tell me what i already know i can do

But thanks anyway.
 
Roy, any advice I give is always biased towards safety.I make no profit from this.I only made the suggestion with this in mind.If you feel confident then the front cover is easily removeable by removing two screws at lhs under front cover.The pcb is then exposed.If the jumpers have come off the pins then you will need to know the correct position to refit them.If they are only loose then push them back on.Don't forget safe isolation.
 
Roy, any advice I give is always biased towards safety.I make no profit from this.I only made the suggestion with this in mind.If you feel confident then the front cover is easily removeable by removing two screws at lhs under front cover.The pcb is then exposed.If the jumpers have come off the pins then you will need to know the correct position to refit them.If they are only loose then push them back on.Don't forget safe isolation.

no worrys gasman, i arranged for my mate, british gas trained engineer, to come tomorrow and do it, then i will know how to do it in another 2 years when it comes loose again.
 
You only need to take off the front cover of the boiler to gain access to the PCB. Jumpers sit right hand corner. Problem is you do need MI , which will tell you which pins they sit on, if you don't get it right boiler wont work correctly. If you know a gas engineer it wont be too expensive better to let him do it .
 
Roy, any advice I give is always biased towards safety.I make no profit from this.I only made the suggestion with this in mind.If you feel confident then the front cover is easily removeable by removing two screws at lhs under front cover.The pcb is then exposed.If the jumpers have come off the pins then you will need to know the correct position to refit them.If they are only loose then push them back on.Don't forget safe isolation.

no worrys gasman, i arranged for my mate, british gas trained engineer, to come tomorrow and do it, then i will know how to do it in another 2 years when it comes loose again.

My mate could not come today so i went in. I opened the case and there is one wire coming from the PCB to the clock so i pulled it of both ends then connected it again then put the lid back on. It worked ok for a bit then the error light came on again. I dont know if that was the jumper link. Does anyone know what the jumper link looks like. I even half took the PCB out pushed all the wire on it and then put it all back together again. Same thing happened i turned on the tap, the water was hot, the clock had the time on it i went away and when i returned the error code was back.
 
My boiler stopped working and there was no power on the display. I had no hot water or heating. I called out an engineer and was told it was the control panel that had gone and replacement of this could also mask a further problem. A friend fitted the new orange pcb, and a new fan at a cost of £288 for parts.

The boiler switched on but was not firing, showing an error code H5. Thanks to the suggestions on here, the code meant the links might not be inserted into the pcb. I looked, and the pcb came with 5 black link pins, which are inserted into the aperature in the pcb in a certain way, depending on the model bought. Instructions as to which pins needs the links on them come with the pcb. Hey presto, two link pins later inserted into the pcb, I have heating and hot water and saved myself alot more money to call out a heating engineer.

Thanks to this site for explaining what the error code H5 meant.
 
Roy, any advice I give is always biased towards safety.I make no profit from this.I only made the suggestion with this in mind.If you feel confident then the front cover is easily removeable by removing two screws at lhs under front cover.The pcb is then exposed.If the jumpers have come off the pins then you will need to know the correct position to refit them.If they are only loose then push them back on.Don't forget safe isolation.

Hey 45yearsgasman Thank you for the advice. I too replaced the PCB on my HE24 isar only to be confronted with the H5 fault code, followed your advice about the jumper pins and Hey Presto hot water and heating again, thank you very much. :D
 
here is a video detailing the H5 and H3 errors:


and I found multiple other videos where they show replacing the PCB:


 
here is a video detailing the H5 and H3 errors:


and I found multiple other videos where they show replacing the PCB:


Given that the last post on this before yours was almost 9 years ago, I suspect they've either got it fixed or had the boiler replaced by now
 

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