Recent content by rbdrifter

Ideally you would use a 12inch stihl saw with dust suppression, you can hire them for a not a lot. If not, use a 9inch grinder with a decent blade. Make sure you use protection ;)

Listen to neo, that is exactly what you have to do. Sbr and sharp sand are your friend. You do not want to be using pva and building sand.

Basically I want to build a large lean to structure coming off the back of my house. Rough dimensions will be 5000 x 5000 give or take. I am going to resin anchor a wall plate to the back of the house at the required height. I will then set 2 large posts (6 x 6 or maybe bigger), at the...

I've never had to do this before, but got some boxing in to do in a bathroom and I want a decent finish but not skimming it. Am I right in thinking that you use 2 tapered edges for the external corner, then use a normal skim corner bead, then just fill in? Cheers

Has anyone got some websites (other than the usual overpriced sheds) for some decent quality engineered oak flooring? So far I have looked on: www.jfjflooring.co.uk www.greenappleflooring.co.uk These both look ok and i have requested samples, but just wondering if there are any...

Yes, by saying front elevation i mean rear most wall. So if the 'lean to' predates 1948, you get your planning allowance on top of that, i.e. you could build a further 3 meters out from existing? Whereas if it was built after 1948, you would most likely need planning permission to go out any...

This picture shows an existing lean- to / outbuilding which the owners wants to replace with a new block rendered structure with slate roof, like how the neighbours have done it. It's a terraced house. The new building would remain the same width (2800) but depth would increase from 2500 to...

I have always found them to be very expensive for near on everything i've had to buy there at the time, even with account prices. I always try and avoid them now. A 110mm double socket soil pipe bend was something ridiculous like £10.20, with my discount! You can get them for about £6 in...

As above, rake out the existing grout (or what's left of it) and re apply using a suitable flexible grout

Depending on the condition of the block / brick work I would give them a render coat with a waterproofer in, leaving a flat surface for the tiling to go on You would never in any circumstance 'dot and dab' sheets of ply. The only way to fix it properly without rendering would be to batten out...