Recent content by roasty

google masterblaster, they are great and very loud

I've got perhaps 40-50 of those in my garages and workshop, they are really quite nice considering the price. The switches are a bit 'clicky', but even that seems to loosen up a bit after a few years. I agree that the MK ones look nicer, and if I was only buying a couple that's what I'd have...

Glad to hear it! Regarding the u or n shaped loop, my understanding is that it matters not. Essentially, as long as there is a downward section then the hot water can't circulate due to gravity. i.e the hot water (being less dense) rises up, but cannot get down the downward section.

I did exactly the same, switched to E7 when I got my electric car. Had the same conversation with the meter guy too. There are two types of meter. 4 terminal - which means that the whole house goes onto E7 at midnight etc.. and a 5 terminal one with effectively 2 output 'lives' one for E7 and...

the anti thermosyphon loop i have is about 1.5m, but thats the space I had available. Also mine is in the return leg, not the flow. I suspect it would work with far less, certainly the entire thing doesn't get warm. If you imagine that it looks like a 'n' with the two legs 1.5 (ish) metres...

I have a similar (albeit even more complicated) setup. Be careful of non-return valves, they can be troublesome, and in my experience, only the flapper type (that will only go in the vertical pipework) are of any longterm use in a heating system... (the spring based ones seem to get gunked up)...

Jakarta make a load of datacentre monitoring hardware (humidity, temperature etc..) they are well respected, I've used their stuff, it's good and reliable. I suspect therefore, that these would work rwell, I'd imagine they are designed to monitor current draw to server racks but without the...

Annnnnnyyywayyy..... back on topic. I have an ev charger in my garage, which is some 60+ metres from the house. It's a 7kw charge unit for my Nissan LEAF, the garage is cabled in 16mm SWA, and I opted to make the garage TT, so it has its own rod. I remember being told that the EV chargers are...

Sorry guys the forum wouldn't allow me to post the full code (this is just the first 8 zones) but you get the picture. To ge the other RIOs it's just a case of replacing/adding bits like: if (($dan[3] eq "03") && ($dan[7] eq "f1")) { $out_31 = $dan[8] . $dan[9] ; $out_32...

Chaps, Apols for the delay, been busy. Anyhow, here's the code I use at home for the Galaxy reading. I'm not much of a coder TBH, and in anycase there is quite a lot of other stuff going on in here, as I call some web services and other stuff, hopefully though it's of use. To be honest, if...

step/cone drill?

about 8-10metres I suppose... But that's what I'm saying, 6mm is fine with regard to volt drop calcs and current carrying capability, but it's not often in a domestic setting that you see such a big load carried for so long... Induction hob, electric showers etc.. are far more short bursts of...

I've got a pod point 7kw charger for my Nissan LEAF. I had it fitted as part of the whole 'buying the car' thing. What I'm saying is that it was a professional install. I'd normally do electrical work myself, but on this occasion it didn't make sense to. They used 6mm t&e to connect mine...

flood light on the house, and a solar panel on the garage facing it....! Transmit the electricity from the house to the garage 'wirelessly' by simply switching on the floodlight from the house. Joke obviously, but should work reasonably well up to 100w or so.

I've managed this, use a 485 to rs232 adaptor and it's quite easy to read the zone status. however as has already been stated, you can't see the 16 on board zones, so need to use ext RIOs. I have a Gal96 with approx 60 zones monitored in this way