Recent content by rocksteady

I took the microswitch apart, it showed signs of electrical arcing / burning, so hopefully this is the problem. I've ordered a new one today and will update the thread once it's fitted.

Thanks for your reply, yes I'm getting power to one side of the switch, I'm not quite sure how the switch should work but I'm thinking that might be the problem, after a bit of research it seems to be a common cause, or else the motor has gone?

Karcher Pressure Washer Completely Dead, I was using it fine for about one minute then it stopped, wouldn't run again. Model K550M. Have tried another capacitor from another machine, its fine. and have pressed the switch manually with no joy, Any ideas? Thanks

After pumping air into the expansion vessel - with the drain cock open, all is well. The boiler has run flawlessly for two weeks now. Thanks for your help!

OK, thanks. I've got a better feel for what I need to do now. I'll try tomorrow and let you know how I get on. Cheers

Hi, I'm having trouble with my boiler, a Ravenheat Whitestar combi - non condensing. The boiler keeps losing pressure and needs topping up once a day now. When it's running the pressure increases to 3.5 bar and then I suspect the PRV opens and releases water - but I've never actually seen this...

It's working again.....ordered a new PCB. For those of you with the same symptoms it's part no. 40003568

OK, it's not the heater element or the thermostats on the element casing. I replaced those today and it's still doing the same thing. Could it be a thermistor or control PCB? Anyone?

Help, I'm having trouble with my dryer. The majority of time it will run for only a few seconds then stop, though sometimes it will run for much longer 20mins plus but the heater won't come on. Is this a sure sign of the element needing replaced or something else? There are no abnormal lights...