Recent content by Safety First

Ha! If I had heard this, I would have challenged it, and been told that the metal will easily fall below air temp and become the coldest thing about, very markedly and rapidly. I had no idea how. So I'd have said it must be wrong. Now I get it. I have to remove the roof to fix it.

This is the key issue for me. I did not know that metal sheets (specifically steel in this case) have a few properties that allow its speed of energy losses, and low thermal capacity to lose sufficient heat into the sky so as to become lower than the ambient temperature. 'Facing the sky' Vs...

The answer is no. The metal will send it's heat into the sky and achieve sub ambient temperatures at such speed, and for so much of the time be the coldest surface, that it will almost always have condensation on it. And it has very little to do with the damp from within the shed.

It's more than I thought.. It would take the average UK earner, 22 million years to earn £1T. I'm going to say this is a problem.

My slab has also tilted 50mm low on one corner. I set tiles/slabs etc as perimeter and intermediate points packed the same. This does make a small dyke at the low corner. I've cut a chase for draining. At the high sides I have dpm throwing water back off the slab. Hopefully the planked floor...

It's storage only. Insulation in my 'design' serves only to reduce condensation on one surface - the roof, as this will drip. If the steel walls are nice and cold, they can sweat out (and down) the water. So insulating them wont help. The faster the whole space can react and equalise internal...

Awesome!

Thanks, Can you do 'The funny bone', next?

Thanks, so that's +1 for the polystyrene, Vs the breather membrane option then.

I already have the plain stuff ready to fit. So it's option 1, 2 or no fangled attempts to mitigate the condensation. Just relying on plenty of air exchange and little ingress.

I have made a treated timber 8'x6' shed. Pent roof. Plan is to clad walls and roof with corrugated steel. Eaves bays (gaps between rafters, resting on wall plate) front and rear are going to be left open. So that's front and back wall, 5 x 70mm x 200mm openings hidden (from lashing rain) behind...

How crazy? What better alternatives? Currently have 6"x1.5" inch wooden raised beds which after 10 years have rotten out. This in our current 6 beds 5@ approx 9'x 3' 1@ 18'x 3' Plan to replace using 9' concrete posts and 6' gravel boards, 12 inches high. The 9' posts are cut into 3' lengths...

Ah, thanks Oldbuffer, I never even thought of soldering onto the microbore. I didn't have solder end caps at home and had to fix/bodge it with what was to hand. I fancied making the milliput much neater and had began cutting through the microbore but stopped as figured I'd be sending copper...

Question is: Shall I drain the system, heat the spurring t and try to remove it? I have soldered pipe before... I can refill the system, add inhibitor and bleed the Not sure what I am getting into with the fiddly business of getting the T out. Perhaps cut out a section and put two couplers...

That would be entertaining. The idea is that the lock out works though.