Recent content by sambartle

Understood.. im only proposing to do one light switch.. in a room that already has other control systems fitted.. which can be easily removed if i do move.. I think prospective buyers would be more off put by the massive hole in the ceiling I'd have to re-plaster where the projection system is...

I thought conduit usually had holes in the bottom bends to allow moisture/vapor to drain out? In which case surely the air is just about as free as when sandwiched between brick and plastic capping? Unless cable conduits are sealed.. which seems unlikely as you'd get condensation in there...

They work like normal switches as well as being wifi controllable.. so i could press the wall switch.. like i do now. I dont need to know where my phone is though.. as I can control everything via my watch.. Id add support for the switch to the app i built for that.

Thanks I assumed so, but wasn't sure as shoving the single core stuff down the back of some plastic isn't that different from shoving it down some plastic conduit.. Why? So I can control it via a home automation device. Or my phone. Or just because I can.. any of the above. That's like asking...

I'd like to buy a wifi controlled light switch for this room, and the ones I would like require a neutral connection so they can be powered all the time without needing to leak current to power themselves via a 2-wire live only connection. It's tricky to find a 2-wire live only version that...

Thanks for the quick reply.. The wall is rendered.. (I just had a quick check - as i incorrectly said it was boarded before.. its not in this room.)

When I bought my house I had it completely rewired by an Electrician, and whilst doing that he re-wired all the lights. They are wired in standard UK 2-wire format, with T&E from the ceiling rose to the switches, so in the switch I only have live, earth and switched live. The wires for the one...

I bought a premier 24 kit from that site not long ago.. they supplied the software, however not all the kits come with the device needed. (the software was old and didn't actually support the alarm revision I had and someone on here sent me an updated version) The best option for programming...

I've got mine working.. Let me have a check how its configured and get back to you. (I have it turned off at the minute because it racked up a 30 quid phone bill sending SMSes when my neighbour triggered it and didnt reset it properly.) It keeps sending SMS for each zone activation, even...

Hi All, I've got a bit of a problem with my boiler making a weird noise, from many posts on DIYnot it sounds like I may have a bit of a common fault (Chattering Relay on main PCB) but I am unsure what that would sound like. What happened is that my heating should have been on but wasn't...

Hi, I recently completed the install of a Texecom Premier 24 system, with the COM2400 communicator module. I have connected the card up, and also connected the COM1 lead from the main panel board to the COM board. I have enabled COM2400 in the COM Port Options on the panel for Internal...

Thanks for the replies.. Yeah it seems that my panel doesnt do it when I enter engineers code, I followed Denford1's tip about the test output and just tried it and it worked perfectly. Havent solved the other problem which is why i wanted to remove the power, but im gonna open a new...

Ah I didn't realise I had to do that from a Texecom panel, I assumed they automatically did it when you entered the engineer code (the manual seems to suggest they do) Is there some way on a texecom panel to do this by an engineering command, other than by shorting the strobe wire in the...

Hi, I've fitted a Texecom Premier 24 alarm to my house along with a COM2400 and an Odyssey bell. I just noticed that the manuals I have for the COM2400 (Issue 3 and 4) provide conflicting information about connecting the small wire between COM1 on the 24 and the COM2400 module. I...

Thank you.. its worked to my hotmail.