Recent content by shippers88

I changed the curtains in our living room and bedroom from IKEA blackout curtains to blackout/thermal curtains from Dunelm, it made a noticeable difference last winter. Probably due to the weight and if it's got something inside as mattylad has said.

Right got you, keep the blanket insulation and use loft legs or similar.

The 100mm in between the joists would be left there, would that be sufficient? Also, the loft would be insulated to required standard of a warm loft so the heat would not be lost.

I'm in the planning stages of boarding out my loft for storage purposes, if I were to insulate at rafter level to the 0.18 u value would that I mean I could remove the extra 170mm insulation that's currently running across the joists below? Also, has anyone ran into any problems with building...

Around 1m - 1.2m.

We are planning to have a garden room installed of around 6ft x 10ft that will go over a (private) sewer line in our back garden. It will be of timber construction, the glorified shed type, and likely be on top of dense blocks on MOT type 1, or an ecobase with shingle. Would it be heavy enough...

Is a rear dormer not an option? What sort of layout is there currently?

[edit] delete

Thanks for clarifying that.

Thanks for the reply. I'll probably be contacting the company that fitted our double glazing to do the roof light and provide building regs certificate.

Hello, I live in a terraced house with a large bathroom in the outrigger above the kitchen at the back. I am looking to add a stud wall in my bathroom going across with the actual bathroom behind this. There is a window at the back. I would possibly add a roof light into this initial entrance...