Recent content by sofaman

Thanks all - does seem a toothbrush and water can shift it somewhat. Will add in some salt, weak bleach and/more elbow grease. Yup - can imagine single glazing would shift the problem. Not sure we have enough space for even thin insulation and plaster without losing light, though it does appear...

We have several windows with mould around the limestone windows. This is worst: We've used biocide to kill the mould and are sorting out ventilation. However it is very unsightly and I cannot know when new mould is reappearing. A lot of anti-mould products that contain bleaching agents...

Thanks. For the 3:1 - is that sharp sand? I guess it will need to be thick consistency to hold the weight of the step whilst it sets, but otherwise doesn't need any kind of shuttering (depending on the depth of the step, it'll need to be raised a few inches from ground level)

Okay, so I say cotswold cottage - it is vaguely honey coloured, the chippings are mouldy and the ants have moved in :-) The old step is cracked and was also moved to replace a gas pipe and I've not been able to put back tidily or level. It was originally level with the inside of the house, the...

Ah okay - so that stopped condensation dripping back into the garage? Could still be wet on the metal, but that matters less in your case. In my case, the ply is still at risk (though out-of-sight, out-of-mind!)

How did you fix the sheets to the ply deck, avoiding any air voids? From what I've read, condensation could form in any unventilated air void and the sheet may hide it.

Storage only at the moment, but was intending to move some gym stuff in. That'd increase moisture (though the up-and-over door would be open), but I don't fancy that if there are a lot of mould spores. Anyway, even just for storage I'm worried the deck is going to rapidly decay...

I think dry when installed, and for the autumn months no problems seen. Pretty sure it has kicked off in December due condensation. I need to do something about it pronto?!

Concrete prefab garage has had a new flat roof, replacing corrugated cement board. That used to suffer badly from internal condensation in winter and I'd hoped the recent replacement ply decking+EPDM would fix it. In the recent few months it has started to get black mould and feels damp to...

Trying all ways to find a matching replacement kitchen cupboard door/panel. At least 15 years old, no labels etc. Colour match, sheen and grain are more important that exact style (piece is needed as a filler). Door: Side panel: Thanks!

Right - no rush. Failing wall = bad. Found some longer nozzles + extensions at 10mm. Read some data-sheets - for M8 resin anchors, 10mm hole is needed. I assume the same is the case for bog standard threaded rod.

Thanks - sounds like a good plan. Now looking for long/thin resin nozzles - not sure how much stud I need in the wall - maybe 100mm?

Yup - I can cut the bracing timber to the length required. Might need to shim if it compresses a little. That is fine, and I can jack using different timber if won't move far enough to slot in the brace. My concern is ensuring big enough domed nut not to strip its threads (big enough and not...

Ah yes - the stud between post and wall would not be visible as the post would end up being next to it. Hadn't thought of using a nut then wood as a temporary way of get the post into exact position. Was just going to use a nut then cut off the remaining stud. Domed nut would be much better...

I was worried about the post rusting through water ingress, rather than the new hardware. Hadn't thought of eye-bolt - yeah there is not enough room to bring in the top hinge by 20mm. Seems like bodging with resin/rod is a goer - need to pick the right spot into a reasonable size/sound...