Recent content by Suited72

remove them all, let it dry. If its solid, then prime, tank and tile. If its not solid, youll need to replace. I would suggest that it's 50/50.

Looks a good plan to me. no need to leave a gap, just silicone the joints, not grout, adjacent walls need to allow for movement.

nice tiles! where are they from?

6mm ply, then important to prime it with a tile primer and then tile with an S2 tile adhesive - thats what we do. You had a suggestion for ditra matting which is also fine and can be used instead of S2 adhesive which is a similar method of decoupling and allowing for movement. I would still ply...

Its not good that your builder is leaving this to you. Aim for 1 tube of silicone per board or you can use dow instastik. Any type of silicone is fine, screwfix own brand etc, i would use a clear. Plus get extra for the joints and trims. You should ply the floor prior to LVT, to level it up...

Leave a painted area around the top, horizontal joins aren't good. PVC (hollow) or ply are fine, either can be affixed with silicone, no need really for screws. The laminate boards wont rot, but will cost a lot more in material and i would charge more for labour. I would also opt for the wider...

I know you're tight for cash, but all of those tiles need to come off - especially in the wet areas. They haven't been done correctly else they wouldn't be coming away. I would go with the reccomendation above and get shower panels, if you cant cut a shower panel with a jigsaw and fix with...

Can you affix a cement backer board to the metal prior to tiling?

Im doing a similar job, Tile adhesive is fine, most adhesives will indicate if they are suitable for exterior use. IE https://www.screwfix.com/p/no-nonsense-wall-floor-tile-adhesive-grey-20kg/429fg

If its solid with no movement then you can tile directly onto that, make sure its primed with a tiling primer such as mapei primer G.

Plasterboard and tanking is the way to go, aquapanel is a gimmick... and if you do then Everbuild Aquaseal 7.5M kit is the best one IMO - has the best tape for corners. And, you can use the primer that the kit comes with on the rest of the walls prior to tiling.

What you've done is fine, what a flap disk wont remove isn't going to be loose. Use a coat of Mapei Primer G or similar and then tile. Use a tanking solution in any wet areas. Or, if you want a quick turnaround you could use tile effect wall panel and affix with silicone or dow instastick...

Oh and i would set the screen back a few mm so that you can get a neat silicone bead on the outside edge - if its straight down from the screen you wont be able to. Usually its the outside ONLY that needs sealing to allow water to escape, not the inside Also, its strange that its saying to set...

Do exactly as you've suggested, screw it where it is packed out and then silicone the gaps. Don't use grout. Some of the shower screens have an external adjustment trim which the shower screen sits inside, these do have some movement (even bend), but I have no idea what type you have.

Going to be tiling externally for the first time using 600sq x 9mm porcelain. Base is concrete slab. Largest area is the patio 5mx4m. I understand the tile is thin for external (want it to match the existing internal tiles) they do state external use. But because of that potential weakness i'm...