Recent content by terryb2

Used an endoscope but it was sadly to short at 2m and kept orienting itself towards the walls of the pipe. I dug 4m down from the beginning of the pipe today so I should be in a good position to find the piece of boss. Any ideas on how I'd cut and patch this clay pipe up? I'm thinking about...

Yeah that'd be where the guttering drains to I believe. The stack is ****ed for the most part - seals are brittle and falling apart. If I'm gonna take it out to make adjustments I may as well replace it with a good cast iron one. Gonna go ahead and bore a hole out and fish. If that doesn't...

I tried replacing a leaking boss today, unscrewed my 40mm waste pipe and tried getting the boss out to no avail - it must've been inserted into the pipe from either end before tightening. The boss fell about 4m and presumably into the soil pipe. I haven't connected the new boss so there's...

Yeah I think this is the best option. Gonna see if I can get one the same colour/texture as my shower panel interface.

I think brushed aluminium would look better. I know you can pick up custom laser-cut signs on ebay. Been there done that and have the cracked plasterboard and dodgy cuts of plasterboard to fill to prove it.

I've been a little liberal in the size of my core bit while chasing in the shower cable. I'm thinking I'll have to find some sort of aluminium plate i can stick behind the shower to match its face unless there's something else I can try. Tiles are ceramic.

Silly question as I'm sure the tape is waterproof but is it typical for you to go as far down as possible?

I had my bathroom ceiling skimmed about one month ago. There's no tape in-between the ceiling and the walls and I'm concerned about movement creating cracks and moisture getting through into the loft. I've had a go at trying to sand away the plaster to make space for tape but ended up covering...

I have a square frame made of 2x4s on which to fit a bit of 3/4" plywood then a shower tray. I've had a go using packers on the batons as I've seen a builder do this once but it throws something else off. Should I level the tray off with mortar instead?

I've dabbed on two moisture resistant plasterboards on an external window wall of my Victorian property's bathroom which I intend to tile over. The wall is composed of two layers of brick without a cavity and was primed with one coat of PVA. Everything's solid - I used a generous amount of dab...

Won't the moisture boards do the job? I won't be doing the skimming myself, so I'll leave this to the plasterer after jointing.

I'm looking to overboard a lathe and plaster ceiling with moisture board in my Victorian property then have it skimmed. The eaves of the roof cause the ceiling to curve. I want to stagger the boards but this curve makes it difficult. I'm thinking I should just run a board along the entire area...

I have a bit of studding roughly the same size as the bathroom studs leftover from another excursion but not enough to use entire lengths. Can I chop them up into smaller pieces and attach them to the sides of the studding tight with two screws each or do they need to be entire lengths?

Not a cavity wall no - two layers of brick side-by-side. Those element boards look decent but are far more expensive than green PB. I did consider aqualpanel/board but it's just overkill. Might consider AQ/AB/EB for the floor though. As for levelling the studs I'm concerned about differences in...

Just pulled down a load of tiles and plasterboard in the upstairs bathroom of my Victorian property. My goal is to tile it from floor to ceiling, replace the toilet, the sink and install a shower cubicle. I have in mind that I'm going to square out any non-level studs by planing off and sticking...