Recent content by terryhawkins

It's actually a light switch finger plate from ebay (just flat perspex), I managed to find one with just the right dimensions. Drilled 4 holes (2 for the heatlink and 2 to fix to back box) then attached the heatlink to it, passed the cables through the back and screwed to the wall.

Job done and all working, many thanks Stem for your help. I added a new fused spur from my immersion tank circuit (it never gets used) which is feeding a 12v LED driver to power the Nest thermostat. The thermostat reports power as 10v but it all works fine. Heatlink has replaced my EP2001...

To be honest I didn't ask about DC or polarity as in the Nest manual it says that it doesn't matter which way round T1 and T2 are connected to the thermostat and as you said it's marked DC. Might be worth me double checking. This is what they actually said when I asked the question and...

I can't see any price on the link supplied, do you have ant other links to this?

I am looking for an AC to 12V DC adaptor that I can connect to a fused spur to power a thermostat. I would rather it was hard wired and not one that was plugged in (otherwise I'll need to install a socket for no reason) and it will be mounted inside an airing cupboard. It will only need an...

Sorry, one more question for you stem. You said to disregard the link between live and terminal 5. What about the other cable in terminal 5? Link that into the live terminal on the heatlink I assume?

Just thought I would add some more information as I have just spoken with Nest and it may help out others. The Nest thermostat can be powered by any 12v power source over the existing thermostat wires, it will need to be at least 0.2A (200mA) as that's what the thermostat draws.

Thanks. I would rather not have a socket, especially where my thermostat is on the wall and it’s the best place for it so don’t want it on a stand. If I kept the old heat link just for power would that work? Assuming the new thermostat has the same power requirements.

Many thanks for the reply, much appreciated, so... I'm basically linking the two terminals that were once connected to a thermostat (now connected to heat link) at the airing cupboard block, so this is always 'on' as it were and all the rest can be done where the controller sits by swapping...

I've had the Nest thermostat for a couple of years and now looking to upgrade to v3 with hot water control. My biggest problem now is the mess of wiring that is my heating controller. The heat link is currently in the airing cupboard wired like this: And this the mess of wiring at my...

You're right about that, there is virtually no movement in either cable, the only way to tug on that cable (either side) is to grab the bits in the photo. So, it's best not to attach the junction box at all? Just let it all move freely, it's impossible for it to move from that joist anyway.

There is very little slack in the cable but I will see if it can be moved over slightly. If not, a bit of no more nails to stop it moving might help? It is in a very awkward position in the loft, and the cable running into the wall has no movement whatsoever so I imagine was a real nightmare to...

Thanks, just needed a bit of reassurance all was good.

Been a bit of an idiot this weekend and drilled through the power supply for my electric shower in the loft. Electrician came out this morning to repair, junction box fitted to join where the break was. I wanted to ask what people think of this repair? I know replacing the whole cable is the...

We are having some work carried out by an electrician, including installing some new sockets in a partition wall. We really need to get the wall up and I wanted to know if I could install the sockets in the wall (and the cabling) as long as it is not connected up and we leave enough cable etc...