Recent content by thepurpleangel

Hi all, I've been having trouble with my boiler after a drain & refill from fitting two new rads. I managed to force the boiler into action by running and adding water, and it's been working for a week but without any read out from the temperature sensor. Now it' started clicking on...

In fact I challenge somone to tell me, when faced with this, where the hell would you start. It may be more flexible, but all I want to do it to set it to come on at one time and off at another, and quickly. This to me is too over complicated for such a small panel. The red swich has 4 positions...

I accept your point, I agree there is more flexibility with the digital timers but for ease of use the manual ones have always felt better. As I say though, this one is old, worn and buggy which makes things harder. The display certainly doesn't change depending on the position of the red...

I honestly find it a complete pain in the arse, it also seems to be buggy as hell, maybe mine is just broken. My issues are : a) the red position switch is far too small without definite positions so it's too easy to leave it set to the wrong thing(there is no text either to indicate...

Yes the second is what I'd really like, I don't have a thermostat unfortunately so it's a bit harder than that. I'm sure there are better digital timers that aren't as buggy as the one I currently have, but the manual ones are just so much quicker to use. So the question is, how do I go...

My Biasi boiler (M90D) has the worst digal timer in the world. I want to know if there is a way I can bypass this or replace this with a simple manual timer. I don't care if it looks ugly, or the timer needs to go on the wall, I just want something that is easier to use than the one already...

I'm not sure what an e type cap is, it looks pretty much like this: http://www.boiler-m8.co.uk/media/catalog/product/cache/4/image/9df78eab33525d08d6e5fb8d27136e95/2/6/260-2500.jpg apart from being black. I'm assuming the knob at the top should turn and the hole should not be clogged...

I hope so but I'm still unable to get the air out. The model is one of: M90D:24/28S(R) Should the AAV move? It seems totally stuck and won't budge but I don't want to force it in case I'm doing the wrong thing.

I'm looking for some help diagnosing a problem with my boiler after I drained the system to replace some radiators. After refilling the system, I tried turning the boiler on but consistently got a fault - the boiler was not detecting water. After fiddling around turning the system on and...

Extra info: The timbers in this wall run up to the ceiling plaster, and I expect are nailed into the respective joists, but are not supporting any other timbers running perpendicular, in fact there are quite a few holes that have been drilled in this wall gap presumibly to run wires down...

I was hoping to move this door frame along to the right but in doing so I would have to move/remove this timber stud/strut. (correct terminology?) The attic room above is open and the joists run accross this wall. Is it possible to safely move this door frame?

Hahaha! :-) I'm sure I'd save my tea! :D