Recent content by Thorthumb

Hijacking the thread a bit here. Joe, I've got a similar dry rot problem, what would rapid drying consist of? Is there anything I can do to speed it up. Subfloor relative humidity is about 68% and the floor is well ventilated with airbricks.

Well as it turned out the pipe was 10mm so ID about 7mm. I got some 3.2 mm wire rope and tried to push that through. Unfortunately on both flow and return the cable goes in about 600mm and then stops dead, feels like it hits an elbow! I'd have thought they would've run an unjointed length of...

Thanks on a budget, good idea, I think I know someone with a set of those rods I can borrow.

Thanks for the replies. Looks like a job for next weekend to isolate and trying to flush/poke it into submission. Failing that I'll have to get me shovel out. :roll:

Hi onabudget, The pipe is really small diameter, not sure of the nominal sizes but I guess it will be less than 10mm bore. The only thing I can think of to poke down it might be some piano wire with a tight loop on the end so it won't puncture anything.

Hi calorific, It is a sealed system. It isn't the valve though as I went so far as to remove the valve :shock: and the flow out was still a trickle.

Hi onabudget, You've got a point there, these pipes are the absolute lowest point on the system as they dip away under the ground outside which makes them even lower than the pipes under the floorboards in the rest of the house. I wonder if there is a product that would shift hardened sludge?

Hi calorific, The flow and return small diameter plastic pipes are teed off the large diameter copper flow and return main pipes under the boiler. At this point they are about 6" to 8" above the concrete floor which they disappear into. From there to the outhouse the pipe run is only about...

The point where the pipes to the outhouse are connected to the large diameter flow and return pipes is right under the boiler so they are closer to the boiler than any other rads. I can't think why this rad should suddenly stop working unless the pipe has got blocked/kinked somehow. Is my...

I posted a topic earlier today about a cold radiator in an outhouse. After ruling out an airlock, I drained down the radiator with the system cold. I then opened first the TRV, closed it and then opened the LSV to check adequate flow. The TRV had a good flow of water but the LSV end just had...

Hi Rob, the pin on the TRV moves freely and I'm pretty sure water flows through it if I press it down with the LSV closed the flow of water coming from the bleed screw slows to a stop.

Thanks denso13, I closed off the TRVs on all the other rads and put the heating on full blast for half an hour, still cold. Any more ideas?

We've got an outbuilding that has a radiator in it spurred of our house central heating. It was working ok but is now stone cold. The radiator was installed when the previous owners converted the detached garage into a home office about three years ago. It has been built into a cabinet so...

I think the problem with putting a helical tie through mortar joints is that they don't get a good enough grip on the pull test. Any more ideas anyone?

Thanks for your reply Woody. Since I posted my question I found a wall tie on the net made by thor where it's like a tapcon screw. For secret fixing it is driven up from a vertical mortar course at an angle, through the brick above across the cavity and into the inner leaf brick/block. I...