Recent content by tigerjimbo

Hi. A slightly confusing question ! The waste that you have posted the link to has a 2 1/2" tail. You can get them with longer tails, up to about 3 1/2". Watch out for the size of the flange though as they can go up to about 86mm as oppose to 73 (ish) for normal shower. Try here for various...

Thanks for the reply. If it was an airlock, where would it be getting back into the pipework, bearing in mind I can get it all flowing freely with no problems. If the air is getting in fairly quickly I would anticipate the water would come out. I am aware that air molecules are smaller than...

I've just fitted a new bathroom suite, toilet, bath and basin and new radiator. The bath was moved through 90 degrees and the taps were moved to the other end of it. The basin was moved a short distance as well. The cold supply is tank fed from the loft and the hot is via the hot water...

All depends really on how close the cistern sits against the wall. Sometimes close-coupled cisterns can leave you with a small gap between the back of the wall and the cistern..no matter what combination of pan connector you use! especially common if you are replacing a toilet onto the...

JohnD, both flow and return enter at the bottom the rad and the bleed nipple is right in the top right hand side. I haven't altered the valves either sideas yet so I may have a go at that next althugh the water sounds as if it's "falling" i.e from top to bottom! James

Hi Chris. It's been in place for about ten days now. Is it a case of repeated bleeding and topping up until it goes quiet or is there something else that can be done? James

Evening. I have recently fitted a very large, designer (apparently!) style radiator in a hallway, in place of an already existing much smaller radiator. The system is a newly installed Baxi combi system with in a two storey semi with nine other radiators. There is nothing unusual about the set...

Yes. It's not very pretty but you can remove the whole fitting which contains the bleed screw, replace it with a 1/2" BSP male threaded drain valve. That will have the nozzle to attach your hose to. Make sure you use some PTFE around the thread to seal it properly.

Is it possible that the pan connector needs shortening slightly to allow the water to exit more freely? It could be that the water is going down the pan connector but cannot get past the narrow gap between the bottom of the pan connector and the soil pipe. Have a look to see what sort of...

Or you could save a lot of messing about and fit two Hep VO traps instead! They are waterless traps and rely on a diaphram closing to prevent smells entering back into the room. They are fully compliant with water regs and they allow you to have as long a pipe run as you wish.

Yes, good idea. It may well come to that! I dont think there will be a simple solution because even replumbing the cold will mean teeing off the cold main...which is on the first floor in the kitchen and then routing it to connect the extension, no doubt through walls and under floors etc...

Not that I know of but I'll check. I would assume that if they have been used then they would more than likely have been used on both hot and cold so the "restriction" should be similar, but it's only the cold that's affected. I even checked the gate valves to see if the spindles had broken...

Has anyone else got any thoughts or does anyone agree with my initial idea? Cheers

You could try a trap that doesn't rely on a water seal, such as the Hep vo trap. That way you dont have to worry about the length of any pipe runs and there is no chance of losing the water..because there isn't any. Therefore no chance of the smell coming back up.

I can only see where the hot and cold pipes materialise out of the wall and yes, all of the pipes are the same, 15 mm copper. The only ones I cant see are the on suite shower pipes as they are buried.