Recent content by tolly123

Im not quite sure specifically what you were getting at by your comment about the 10deg DT not achieving the correct output but just to be clear, slowing down the flow rate, either by reducing pump speed or throttling the flow meters to say a 20 deg DT will reduce heat output, not increase it...

Not sure about this advice, a F&R delta t of ten degrees is an acceptable design for UFH. You dont want it lower than this generally as the floor coverings surface temp will have a noticable temp gradient depending on whether its a single meander or snail pattern.

Live to Common on the new stat SL to NO on the new stat

Hi, ive built a brick built shed approx 30m2. Quick question though. I did the front in 100mm blocks as im going to clad in larch but do i need a vapor barrier between the cladding and the blockwork? Thanks in advance

Hi, im in the middle of building a 30m2 shed. Its a single skin brick construction with piers. The front however i built out of single skin 100mm blocks as im going to clad the front in siberian larch cladding. I plan on using 2x2 first to batten out the blocks so i can nail the cladding on...

You can take apart solvent weld fittings. Not the hardest thing in the world. You need room to work though so you may have to get the breaker out anyway. If you do a lateral cut in either the inside of the pipe or the outside of the fitting depends on what you want to keep/take apart (being...

Hi, im just doing up the bedroom on a house we've just bought. After taking off the paper on the ceiling every single joint in the ceiling plasterboard has a hairline crack! House built in the late 50's. On closer inspection the PB was only tacked on with nails and has hessien scrim tape so i...

In answer to question 2, you do need a seperate thermostat for the UFH.

I would get a pro in to do this judging by the questions you are asking. You need more than just a pump, it has to be blended down to a lower temperature aswell. You need a flow and return to the manifold aswell teed before the existing two port valves on the primary flow and return from the...

Any pictures?:eek:

His sunshine, i would leave the cyl stat at 60 and set the boiler to 70 to ensure it heats it DHW correctly. Im not sure regarding using the weather comp ( vrc470) for UFH what benefits this would give you as its designed to be used with a 3 way mixing valve and a vr61 wiring centre for UFH...

Just read you have UFH everywhere so you can ignore what i said about house being warm enough as that temp will be blended down at the manifolds anyway.

The boiler deffinatly needs to be set higher than the cyl stat otherwise you have no interlock and the boiler will potentially stay on permantly. 70 degrees would be a good starting point and adjust accordingly if the house isnt warm enough but theres too many variables for someone to give you a...

Hi, i've filled out my engineer details. Is this all i need to do? Thanks, Matt =================================== Yes, checking is manual and takes a couple of days. Report your own post if it doesn't happen. Mod ==================================== 11/02/18 : still pending.

I wouldnt overthink it too much, if its a combi your having installed then you wont see any benefit from running DHW in 22mm, all it will do it give you a longer time for HW to "pull through" ( arrive at the outlet). IMO stick to 15mm for the whole DHW carcass. 10mm speedfit is horrible stuff...