Recent content by Toonlad

Yes I did mean a sand/loam base.....and I've given it a high cut with a new mower with a cylinder cutter and rear roller, what a picture!!!! Thanks for the comments.......

I've got a new block paved double drive laid which I am more than happy with, but the wet weather last week has slowed down the drying out process of the sand in the joints.....I was advised that once these were all dried out and the excess sand swept off, I could then spread some Kiln Sand into...

I've just had a new lawn laid on top of a proper sand base etc. and it looks great - I know I have to keep it well watered, is there any other advice anyone can give around, when it should take a first cut, fed, etc? Ian in Northumberland

Nige......why not Vinyl Silk?? Is it that you just don't like it, or is there a reason I need to know about!!!? You don't think then, that the existing backing paper left behind when I pulled the top layer off, will not peel when I paint it? Would save a lot of work if I don't have to hang...

Thanks Dan, You are getting me to think about the problem which is no bad thing!!! The floor is concrete, and I'm therefore sure the pipes are coming from above as the radiator in question is on the ground floor. They are copper, and narrow, narrower than I've seen in other homes...

That's my first job in the morning!! At least now I know I am on the right lines thanks to your speedy feedback lads!!! Thanks again, I'll update tomorrow IF I put it right, and, if I don't I'll try to explain better the symptoms to hopefully get further help!! Cheers again!!!

These replies are FAST and appreciated!!!! There are indeed some other wires that I've left exposed, but none of them other than two red ones are open ended. I should have added that a black wire was looped around one of the door beam connectors, but the strange thing is that this...

No, the pipes are coming out of the wall just above the skirting board to feed the radiator. So all I can see is 2 inches of pipe that then attaches to the radiator that I want to permanently remove. I want to find a way of "tucking them" back behind the dry lined wall, but I am concerned...

As daft as this sounds,have you tried brushing the 2nd coat on?

I've knocked out and boarded up an internal door that has got an internally wired alarm contact in the door beam, and a magnetic contact on the top of the door. Before I boarded up the door frame, I've left the wires from the beam accessible. My idea is to re-attach the part that would...

I've removed the top cover of some wallpaper leaving behind a reasonably sound backing paper on dry lined walls. There is some minor damage to some of the paper left on the walls. I want to apply a Vinyl Silk Emulsion, and am being advised to apply, horizontally, some 1000 grade lining paper and...

:?: I am ok with removing a radiator and the associated wall brackets ( I don't want to put another one there) but I need some advice on how to remove, or hide the remaining pipes at either end? I know they will need to be "capped off", what do I need? And what is the best way of "hiding"...

Could someone offer me some simple steps for me to replace valves on 2 radiators with thermostatic ones? I seem to think that a good way to avoid draining the system is to place a bung in the feeder tank up in the loft - does this mean that as long as the CH is off, and I close down the...

Can I have a steer on how to replace ordinary onn/off valves on my radiators with thermostatic ones please? I know when the man from the Gas Board came and did one last week, he applied a \\\"bung\\\" in the tank in the loft to save draining the system - but I do not know why or how this...

Thanks to both of you for cracking information!! I've got the taps, and I've bought 2 flexible tap connectors, about 15cms long, 15mmx1/2inch - I was assured that these dimensions would fit my existing water pipes. I think I'll shorten the existing pipe and attach the flexi, which I'm...