Recent content by veryfluffy

So...painting a newly plastered bathroom. Ceiling and two internal walls skimmed, the two external walls were replastered -- going to wait another couple of weeks before I paint to make sure they are totally dry. I have been planning to get Leyland/Johnstone acrylic eggshell for the walls...

The hallway is already too small, so no space for boarding it. I did think about skimming -- but would skim even stick to the gloss? If I can get those ridges ground off, then I will probably try a high adhesion primer -- I'm also thinking tile primer would probably work?

The front entry hall of my house is like the technical challenge on a Great British Decorate-Off. The problem wall is made of breezeblock, unplastered. It is painted in some kind of gloss paint, which was ridged somehow to give an effect of big stone blocks. I'm guessing the paint dates back...

I am about to tile the kitchen, halfway up the wall, and just looking at how to finish the edges. First time I have encountered these edging strips, and I don't like them. The tiles are the same colour as the wall paint (antique white), it's a very olde worlde cottage kitchen, and I just can't...

That mainly seems to be because it wasn't dilute-primed first, according to instructions, just painted on neat, and the surface was a bit sandy. It's cleaned now -- except for where it won't budge. The floor was previously woodblocks, the bitumen dried out long ago, and 90% of the blocks were...

I am getting very confused and stressed, and we haven't even started. I know this job will be difficult (and may get a tiler in to lay and grout eventually), but in the meantime I would love some advice on at least preparing the floor properly for the project. Room is 30 sq m. Floor is...

I'm taking up an old wood block floor, and putting down tiles (probably slate) instead. The room is roughly 25 sq m. The wood blocks are about 3.3 cm high, stuck with bitumen on concrete. The concrete I have exposed so far seems reasonably sound and dry. There is no modern DPM. However...

I am about to start knocking some walls down to create the kitchen/dining room, and so I began peeling off some of the early 1980s textured wallpaper that I was blessed with by the previous owners. I discovered that on the outside wall, underneath the wallpaper is a very thin layer of...

Unfortunately, they aren't heavy enough to be oak, and just have that "pine" look about them. So is it the Osmo Wood wax colour that goes on first, and then still two coats of the Polyx Oil?

After a process that has taken almost two years, I am just about ready to sand and finish my reclaimed woodblock floor. The blocks are 1 3/4 inc high, and some kind of pine. Any varnish or finish they have ever had is long since gone. I have laid them in a herringbone pattern, with a single edge...

What about the possibility of tinting the cable?

The cable for the ceiling lights in the loft room is going to run along the beams (stripped back to antique pine colour), next to the antique white ceiling. There's really no way of hiding the cable completely, so I just need it to fit in as well as possible. White is just going to be wrong. I'm...

I have old hardwood windows, currently done in a very dark brown Sadolin. I want to stick with Sadolin, but one of the nice colours of Superdec, probably a greenish/bluish/grey. Can I just sand off the loose bits, and paint straight over, or will the dark brown show through badly? If so, is it...

Thanks WYL! Quick search says most hire places only have the hand-held belters, or the big drummers -- is http://www.floorsanding2u.co.uk/sanding_machines.html the right one to use? Also -- the main question is how big a height difference between blocks is okay? Will the sander deal with...

After about a year in progess, I am just about ready to sand the floor. Although I've read everything, including WoodYouLike's handy guide, obviously MY floor doesn't conform to anything else exactly :? , and I need to know if the same recommendation still apply. The details: * Room is about...