Recent content by wolfwiser

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    Removal of plaster lip?

    Hi there, I've removed some old skirting which has left a void, this has been filled with plasterboard and patched with bonding coat plaster. I now want to have the wall re-skimmed prior to adding the new skirting (which will be at a lower height). A problem is that the walls have been...
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    Radiator pipe configuration under floor

    Hi there, I've a combination of copper and speedfit pipework for my CH system, I've DIYed some, and had different plumbers for other parts. Is there a 'standard' set up in terms of elbows etc for coming through a floor to connecting radiators - Personally I've always used a 90 deg...
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    bonding layer(s) too thick?javascript:emoticon(':?:')

    Hi guys, I've removed some old skirting in my 1930s semi and there will now be a gap between the new lower height skirting and wall, which I intend to get a pro in to skim. I've PVA'd the engineered brick and added a couple of coats of bonding plaster (not fully dried and PVA between...
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    Corner Beading

    Thanks for the reply, I've only used the thinner skim beads before, but that was on a boarded wall, this will be back to the original brickwork. I guess a vertical straight and true edge is more important. I suppose with the period feature wood vs metal its a matter of personal (or the...
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    Corner Beading

    Hi. I’m looking to replace wooden corner beading with metal corner beading around the external corners of a chimney breast and window reveals. Advice on this forum seems to suggest its better to remove entirely and make up with bonding plaster and adding the beading. Is this correct? Is...
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    Repairing plaster / attaching mouldings

    Hi, I’m replacing old skirting in an upstairs room, the new skirting is not as high as the old skirting I’m removing. Behind the skirting attached to external walls there is a void – the skirting was attached by a wedge between the bricks and then nailed on. It is a similar set up for a...
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    Access to new loft - removing roof slats?

    Hi, I've had an extension above my garage on a 1930s semi, resulting in a new hipped roof. The slats (I.e. the horizontal small batons used where the old roof tiles used to sit) from the old roof are still in place preventing access into the 'new loft'. Am I able to cut through these to...
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    Easily scratched glass - faulty?

    I have just removed the cellophane covering from 2 x Howdens 4 panel 2 light glazed doors (http://www.howdens.com/doors-joinery-collection/internal-doors/internal-hardwood-doors/4-panel-oak-2-light-glazed/). The cellophane needed cutting around the edge of the glass otherwise untidy bits were...
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    shower elbow outlet connector problem

    Hi all, I'm in the process of reconfiguring my bathroom and I've hot a 'little' problem. I have a fixed mixer shower head with a secondary outlet for a handheld shower, which is connected via a flexi-hose to a 'designer' elbow. After tiling it seems that the thread isn't quite long...
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    What material is my wall - tanking required??

    hopefully you can see from the (rotated) picture the wall. The property was built in 1937, and the wall seem to be standard, but I'm not sure. There is evendence externally that a window has been moved at some stage in the past on this wall, yet the internall wall composition seems to be...
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    Drywall edges/inperfections can be hidden under tiles?

    Hi Richard, yes this is the same job, but a different area (dry, zone 3) of the bathroom with standard 12.5mm baseboard (stud wall). As I'm removing coving (which is a bit of a pain, any tips?) where the new board (also guess it'llbe the same for the aqua panel, but not got there yet) meets...
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    What material is my wall - tanking required??

    Thanks Richard, the wall is definately solid, and doesnt appear to have a top coat of plaster. The wall is generally in very good condition, and the tile adhesive is coming of OK with little damage to the surface below. I was a little surprised as the finish of the render is excellent, just...
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