Drywall edges/inperfections can be hidden under tiles?

[wolfwiser]

Untitled

• wolfwiser
• 26 Jan 2012
• 1

can I get away with not filling these gaps at the top and edge of new drywall, which I shall be tiling directly upon (after priming). What is the usual procedure for tiling up to the ceiling, use caulk? (as grout would disappear through the hole!) or edging strip - which I think can look naff.

I'm going to re-plaster (or hopefully just patch up) the ceiling, so I could try but wondered how much you can get away with behind a tile

 

[PrenticeBoyofDerry]

I would at least tape up the joints, is this a shower area?
Tile as tight to ceiling as you can, grout as normal then a bead of silicone on joint.

 

[wolfwiser]

Thanks, no this isn't the shower area, but I guess it will be a similar situation when I get there (apart from the board will be aqua panel). I certainly shall skrim tape the join, but wasn't sure of grout or silicone.

Doesn't silicone pull paint off the ceiling?
is it a differing case in tge shower area?

Thanks for the advise so far!

 

[Richard C]

I can't see your picture, says it's been made private; had to look in your profile but still not sure if I’m looking at the right one.

Ideally you don’t want any gap but don’t use don't use plaster. Not critical in a dry area but don’t grout the corner, it’ll crack if you’ve got any differential movement (quiet usual) use a matching silicone sealer.

Is this connected with your other thread?

 

[wolfwiser]

Hi Richard, yes this is the same job, but a different area (dry, zone 3) of the bathroom with standard 12.5mm baseboard (stud wall).

As I'm removing coving (which is a bit of a pain, any tips?) where the new board (also guess it'llbe the same for the aqua panel, but not got there yet) meets the ceiling there is a small gap. I was wondering if I could skrim tape between the wall and ceiling, patch up the ceiling and then tile right up to the ceiling (over the tape)?

 

[Richard C]

With the coving, if you can knock a sharp scraper at the wall & ceiling at one end, then ease in a bolster chisel behind it & pull it off, sometime the complete length will come off in one lump. If it’s “on there”, just break it up with a hammer & then chisel off the adhesive residue; don’t prussy foot around with it, what will be will be.

So it’s obviously an existing gap; how small/large is it? TBH as it’s at the ceiling you probably won’t need to worry about it too much; there will be absolutely no loading on it & you can probably just tile up the ceiling & caulk it; if your use silicone, water based paint wont stick to it. Tape any board joints as PBD.

The PB should really be Moisture Resistant in a bathroom but it should be OK in dry areas as long as you have an extract fan (as per B Regs in new bath/shower rooms) & you have good ventilation. I would certainly replace it in wet areas though.