Recent content by ^woody^

Theres a long thread from a few years ago about a bungalow a dormer extension and rear extension and keeping the roofs separate. There are images in it. Have a search and see if its a similar situation.

The 40 and 50 m3 cumulative limits are in the guidance. There is no appeal as it's policy. You won't get a different decision via an LDC - the same criteria applies You just have to ensure that you interpret it correctly and volumes are calculated correctly.

Just scrape off the top layer of soft/top soil. Typically up to 200mm deep. If you already have hardcore/ hard ground for existing paving, that might do and not need removing. Bedding a concrete paving slab as the foundations and building off that may be useful.

Put as much as you like in there, min 300mm - between and over joists, don't worry about the eaves. Make sure you use a breather membrane, not felt.

Angle grinder blades are not deep enough, and a Stihl saw is not ideal If the mortar is soft enough a hand saw is safer, less dust, less vibration and just better. Less dramatic though, so not for TikTok builders.

Cut the joints with a hand saw then

It depends if you paid for perfect or imperfect bricks and also if the crazing is characteristic of the clay or manufacturing process. The brick would not necessarily be affected by freeze/thaw because of those fissures and crazing, rather it would take other factors such as clay impurities or...

Do half first, then the other half. That mortar looks really strong, which may be a reason for the spalling. But it may be just more recent repointing and, the mortar behind softer. If the whole joint is hard, this means that you should be careful with banging the wall. Try and cut out as much...

Lintel for masonry. Timber beam for timber.

Aren't the Venice canals tidal? Uneven tide marks and salt staining are indicative of uneven saturation by salt water. We can explain Venice. It does not explain Bruges

That's too similar on individual tiles be the random patterns of lichen. and does look like a manufacturing defect of surface delamination. Tiles tend to have the same colour dye throughout, and when the smooth surface wears, a rougher and lighter colour of the concrete becomes gradually...

Wow! 13 years is a lot of time for things, and opinions to change. But the science? My mechanic mate Scot always said "You can'a change the laws of physics" I present Bruges. It has it all - water, and bricks (although not engineering bricks but soft commons) - and even universities offering...

Yes. Remove any vents and seal the openings , not just close vents. Vent covers leak air.

That looks like water penetration from the shingle nails and or poor overlap. It may be moss related.

That flat roof is sealed with flashband where it meets the pitched roof. Terrible detail that will fail within a few years. The leak is indicative of defective flashing, poor pointing or less likely but possible, lack of DPC around the stack. Have the flashing done properly and the stack...