Im intending to paint my property internally.One area Im a little unsure of is how I can best achieve a good finish between the wall and ceiling, as they are to be different colours.Ive seen the paint pads but I can just imagine that they wont be that easy to use an judder along and end up causing a wonking merge line.What I intend to do is add masking tape all the way along the merge line.Is this likely to remove the paint after I peel it off.Other method would be to get one of those plastic guides, but Im sure they wont alwys stop all the apint and paint wil run slightly of the edge that is pressed against the merge line.
How to achive best ceiling/wall merge line when cuting in?
- Thread starter hyposmurf
- Start date
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Masking tape "will" damage the paint as you remove it. Plastic guides,, hmm,,, they aren't all they're cracked up to be either. The best thing of all is a steady hand,, which only comes with practice. Try it in a small room first, and see how you get on, but as i said, i wouldn't rely on masking tape or protective guides.
cutting it in by brush is the best way mate, with masking tape not only do you run the risk of pulling paint off on removal but paint usually creeps behind even with the low tack easy mask types .
the plastic guides wont sit tight to the edge as walls are rarely dead flat and paint will get behind .
so you'll need a good quality 3" brush i would recommend a purdy
thin the paint down slightly to improve flow, offer the brush up to the join in a sort of arc motion and draw it across the line using a steady hand ,make sure you use the flat part of the brush not just the small edge,
it is easier to do than it is to explain
just practice and you'll see what i mean
the plastic guides wont sit tight to the edge as walls are rarely dead flat and paint will get behind .
so you'll need a good quality 3" brush i would recommend a purdy
thin the paint down slightly to improve flow, offer the brush up to the join in a sort of arc motion and draw it across the line using a steady hand ,make sure you use the flat part of the brush not just the small edge,
it is easier to do than it is to explain
just practice and you'll see what i mean
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I second everything that beeno5 five says but i would recommend adding floetrol to the cutting in paint.
Follow the shadow line that is created where the wall meets the ceiling, then drop about a mm below that. This will reduce the risk of accidentally encroaching onto the ceiling. I tend to do about 30cm at a time, arcing up to start and then down at the end.
I prefer to be very high up the ladder, so much so that I am stopping. I just find it easier to see the shadow line that way. You can move light sources to help accentuate the shadow line if necessary.
If I have had too much to drink the night before I allow my little finger to run along the ceiling as a steadying guide.
Dont expect it to be perfect on the first cut in you can pick up any undercuts the second time around.
As suggested do buy a purdy or wooster, it will make life so much easier to have a brush that retains its shape and doesn't shed it's hairs
Follow the shadow line that is created where the wall meets the ceiling, then drop about a mm below that. This will reduce the risk of accidentally encroaching onto the ceiling. I tend to do about 30cm at a time, arcing up to start and then down at the end.
I prefer to be very high up the ladder, so much so that I am stopping. I just find it easier to see the shadow line that way. You can move light sources to help accentuate the shadow line if necessary.
If I have had too much to drink the night before I allow my little finger to run along the ceiling as a steadying guide.
Dont expect it to be perfect on the first cut in you can pick up any undercuts the second time around.
As suggested do buy a purdy or wooster, it will make life so much easier to have a brush that retains its shape and doesn't shed it's hairs
Hi,
In painting the whole house you first paint the ceiling,
then if that was already dry then start in painting for the walling
then Walls then doors and skirting...
for the better result of your house...
hope that it will help you a lot...
In painting the whole house you first paint the ceiling,
then if that was already dry then start in painting for the walling
then Walls then doors and skirting...
for the better result of your house...
hope that it will help you a lot...
My way around this frustrating problem was to fit coving
not only does it look lovely (in my opinion - the 127mm variety) but also gives the room a modern look.Supercove is excellent and looks identical to solid plaster coving, but you can fit it yourself without needing an extra set of hands.
Once fitted, paint the coving and ceiling white or your preferred colour, once dried apply Masking Tape to the underside of the coving and paint the walls - the masking tape won't damage the coving nor the paint that you have applied to it, leaving you with a nice straight line between wall/coving once removed.
Glad it worked for you sargeantash but in many houses the walls are lumpy and bumpy, meaning that the masking tap wont follw the profile with ease. Further, as previously pointed out there is a risk of paint bleed under the tape, this is particularly true of oil based paints (when used for architraves), not to the mention the risk of the paint riping if the tape is left on for too long.
Another gripe that I have with regard to using tape is that the paint will be much thicker where it meets the tape, forming a lip.
IMHO the only professional alternative to a 3" brush is to use a flat edge and spray
Another gripe that I have with regard to using tape is that the paint will be much thicker where it meets the tape, forming a lip.
IMHO the only professional alternative to a 3" brush is to use a flat edge and spray
You don't end up with a lip if you correctly apply the masking tape because the edge is at 90 degrees to the other edge so no lip is visible.
Spraying is messy no matter how careful you are with masking off rooms, and doesn't leave a very thick paint coat in place meaning that in the event of needing to clean/wipe the wall, you can accidents and very easily remove the paint.
Hi sargeantash
[quote="sergeantash";p="1700061]
You don't end up with a lip if you correctly apply the masking tape because the edge is at 90 degrees to the other edge so no lip is visible.[/quote]
Point taken- invariably there is excess paint build up though, granted, high up it is not terribly noticeable.
[quote="sergeantash";p="1700061]
Spraying is messy no matter how careful you are with masking off rooms, and doesn't leave a very thick paint coat in place meaning that in the event of needing to clean/wipe the wall, you can accidents and very easily remove the paint.[/quote]
Not quite correct- I was referring to the use of "proper" airless sprayers costing £1500+ rather than the things that you find in diy sheds. There is very little overspray with airless compared to compressor or HVLP. They handle the paint without the need for viscosity cups and over-thinning so the coatings are fine.
I only do domestic and agree that sheet up time is too high, as is tool cleaning.
Horses for courses, and there is always more than one way of doing things correctly/satisfactorily. That said, if I had a decorator working for me that couldn't cut in, with brush only, I would terminate his employment immediately. A "REAL" decorator should only be using masking tape in a protective capacity (err... unless spraying).
I appreciate that for the average homeowner the prospect of cutting in is quite daunting but it needn't be with the advice given in this thread.
[quote="sergeantash";p="1700061]
You don't end up with a lip if you correctly apply the masking tape because the edge is at 90 degrees to the other edge so no lip is visible.[/quote]
Point taken- invariably there is excess paint build up though, granted, high up it is not terribly noticeable.
[quote="sergeantash";p="1700061]
Spraying is messy no matter how careful you are with masking off rooms, and doesn't leave a very thick paint coat in place meaning that in the event of needing to clean/wipe the wall, you can accidents and very easily remove the paint.[/quote]
Not quite correct- I was referring to the use of "proper" airless sprayers costing £1500+ rather than the things that you find in diy sheds. There is very little overspray with airless compared to compressor or HVLP. They handle the paint without the need for viscosity cups and over-thinning so the coatings are fine.
I only do domestic and agree that sheet up time is too high, as is tool cleaning.
Horses for courses, and there is always more than one way of doing things correctly/satisfactorily. That said, if I had a decorator working for me that couldn't cut in, with brush only, I would terminate his employment immediately. A "REAL" decorator should only be using masking tape in a protective capacity (err... unless spraying).
I appreciate that for the average homeowner the prospect of cutting in is quite daunting but it needn't be with the advice given in this thread.
I
Ianthedecorator
Only one comment here ,the best way to get a perfect finish on the ceiling to wall edge is simple ,,,,,,,,,,get a skilled decorator in to do the job !!
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