Peelaway product?

vards01 · 16 Aug 2010

Has anyone had any experience with Peelaway paint stripping product? This is quite an expensive paint stipper and was looking for some proof it actually works before buying. I have tried nitromors but just not as good as what it used to be, and just produces a gooey mess.

Thanks in advance,

Ian

opps · 16 Aug 2010

are you looking at the oilbased remover or the waterbased remover.

I have used both and have been impressed by both, particularly the waterbased remover.

I highly recommend it for curved surfaces (spindles etc).

It is slower to apply than nitromoors and needs to be covered For this reason i would use a heatgun for flat surfaces and peelaway for the rest

vards01 · 16 Aug 2010

I would like to use a heat gun but the fire risk is too great, I'm doing the soffits, fascias and barge boards on a 1890's house with paint build up to match! I will have to use peel away 1 because of the lead based paint on the wood. There are some curved trim around the edges so guessing it should be good for that.

opps · 16 Aug 2010

Then you need this for the flats

http://www.metabo.co.uk/Product-catalogue-handheld-powertools.23958+M5f96518cf48.0.html

vards01 · 16 Aug 2010

some of the wood is quite uneven though.....don't know if this would work....I'm assuming this tool is like a fine power plane?

opps · 17 Aug 2010

Correct it is a mini plane.

It might be cheaper to overboard the soffits if they are really bad. or compromise on the quality of finish if heat guns are a definite no-no.

I hate those kind of jobs where you have to try to work off a ladder because even the best sanders are useless due to the angles your are working at.

vards01 · 17 Aug 2010

I know its a pig of a job....I am on some scaffolding but 120 years of paint is going to take some sanding....I've already tried with some 60 grit! I may try and pick one of these up as I'm sure it would come in handy else where. Have you had any experience with this tool?

opps · 17 Aug 2010

To be honest- no- I would have got one before but I purchased a Festool Rotex (150mm), with awfully good/expensive german sanders you can sand virtually anything.

The fact that the metabo is flat surfaces only was the clincher- that said, last weekend i was talking to the festool rep and he admitted that the metabo is quite good- in a limited capacity. My main concern would be hitting nail heads and breaking the blade.

opps · 17 Aug 2010

Is the paint crazed or flaking? I personally would rather buy lots of resin filler and sand that back- my philosophy is that if majority of the paint has stayed in place for 100 years then leave it there and feather it out rather than stripping back.

vards01 · 17 Aug 2010

Its a bit of both really, I say there are around seven layers of paint there, I did try to rub it back and feather it in, but when I undercoated it looked poop. The trouble is previous people have not prepared properly when they have painted so its just layers of rubbish, to make it all worse the last person painted it all with one coat gloss.

What is this resin filler you mention? What would be the best type of sander to tackle this job do you think?

The metabo tool does sound good although as you say one raised head under that paint and its game over on the blades.

opps · 18 Aug 2010

Epoxy resin filler- aka car filler. feathers perfectly and hardens in minutes

Often cheaper to buy the big tubs from car shops.

The best sanders on the market are Festool, they are expensive though, that said, I replaced my RO150e sander yesterday with the new RO150FEQ, it cost £440 but it had very regular use over 7 years, so was worth the extra money

http://www.finewoodworking.com/ToolGuide/ToolGuideProduct.aspx?id=30150

All sanders will work better with a dust extractor. Again I recommend Festool.

http://www.festool.co.uk/Products/Pages/Product-Competence.aspx?foc=ol_absaugmobile_ct_1787

They also make a number of detail sanders.

You will be able to achieve better results with less mess, your pockets will be emptier though (initially). Over the years it has helped me distinguish myself from the lower ends of the decorating spectrum, meaning that price competition is less relevant.

vards01 · 18 Aug 2010

Ok I know the filler you mean.

So do you think a DA orbital sander is better than a flat sander.

Thanks for the links, I think the festool product are a little out of my price range.....they look like the real deal though.

Unfortunatley where I have been going at the soffits I need to take them right back.

Still toying with the idea of this Metabo stripper.

opps · 18 Aug 2010

A D/A will be much faster than an orbital.

These days I only use orbitals for corners etc.

With the right grades a D/A ((random orbital) can provide the same quality of finish as an orbital but at a much faster rate.

remember to mix the amount of filler required given how fast it goes off. I also recommend painting it before it gets rained on. The rain wont affect it but it might swell the wood and push the filler out

good luck

MartinSmith · 22 Dec 2011

Hi,

Has anyone used Peelaway on a metal fireplace?

I estimate it to be about 100 years old and although it looks like it probably has several layers of modern paint, my guess is that it has potentially dozens of layers of older lead based paint.

It has some detail and pattern that i think sanding will miss, i tried a supermarket own brand paint stripper and was totally unimpressed with the result.

diynot

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Peelaway product?

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