Stopcock leaking around spindle, fixable?

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harrypotter

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Water is coming out near the spindle and gets worse the more you open it.

Can I undo the bit next to the spindle and put PTFE tape on it, or is it something else?

IMG_20240312_230159~2 (1).jpg
 
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Try tightening down the nut while the stopcock is open - that tightens the packing around the spindle and should stop the leak.
 
ChrisJP said:
Try tightening down the nut while the stopcock is open - that tightens the packing around the spindle and should stop the leak.
Click to expand...

Ok thanks I'll give that a go. Yes I guess wrapping PTFE around the thread would be pointless as it's not leaking through the threads lol
 
To fix a leaking gland nut on a stop valve.

  • Close the valve completely. Turn clockwise looking down on the handle.
  • Undo the gland nut. This is the small nut, usually hexagonal but occasionally a knurled ring.
  • If the “T” piece for the handle is screwed on in the centre, try and loosen the screw.
  • If possible, remove the handle and the gland nut. If not possible, carry out 6 and 7 below as far as you can.
  • Clean any limescale from the shaft of the tap as far as possible. Use a limescale remover like Kilrock if possible. For any remainder, use fine sandpaper (120 grit or finer) or a fine file.
  • Clean the shaft as much as possible, and make sure there is no roughness to it. A polish with grade 00 wire wool or Brasso is good.
  • Cut a length of PTFE tape. Start with about 10 inches / 250 mm. Twist it into a “string”
  • Wrap the string around the spindle, clockwise looking down from the handle end.
  • Put the gland nut back on the spindle if removed.
  • Push the PTFE down into the body of the tap with something like a thin flat bladed screwdriver.
  • Screw the gland nut back into the body of the valve.
  • Tighten the gland nut so that the spindle can just be turned by hand (with the handle back on if removed).
  • Open the valve and check for leaks.
  • For a slight weep, try tightening the gland nut a little more.
  • For a more serious weep, repeat as above and use more PTFE.
 
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Replace the tap.

Repacking the gland with PTFE will stop the leak but if the tap is used regularly, which TBH it should be to stop it stiffening/seizing up, then the PTFE will wear out quite quickly and it will just start to leak again.
 
The couple of times I've sorted out leaking stopcocks I have got a length of string rubbed it up and down with a candle to lubricate it, wrapped 2 or 3 times around the spindle and pushed it back into stuffing box by tightening up spindle nut so handle can just be turned.
 
harrypotter said:
As in just part of it, not the whole stopcock? And are they standard sizes and where can I find one?#
Click to expand...

I see some numbers, cast into the side of body, take a side on photo of those, that might help you ensure you source the correct replacement complete tap. You could then just replace the internals, leaving the main body untouched. Try a good plumbers merchant.

To swap it over, you will need to find the stop tap, out on the footpath, close it, then open all your cold taps to drain your internal pipework down. If the stop tap succeeds in shutting the water off fully, the flow from the cold taps should slow and stop completely. There will still be some water escapes, so have towels to hand to catch it.

Me, personally - I would just try tightening the gland nut up as a first step, and see whether it continues to leak..

It looks like a fairly recent install, and sometimes the gland nuts are not tightened enough, on original install.
 
Last edited:
Madrab said:
Get it out of there and get a WRAS approved 22mm 1/4 turn lever valve fitted in its place.
Click to expand...

Why, are they more durable? I think I've having a lot of problems with leaks because the water here in the SW is very hard. I'm not sure how long stuff is supposed to last but about 5 valves have started leaking in the past year and my house was only built 13 years ago.
 
More durable, not sure about that but certainly aren't any lesso - though good quality WRAS approved valves don't suffer from the same leaking/jamming/seizing issues that the older turn down stop taps do. They are also easier and quicker to use in an emergency ..... modern times, modern equivalents.
 
Just put a lever valve on. Nice and easy. Don't leak like a stop cock.
 
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