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Sorry, yes, think it’s a bit steep. Up to you with winter coming though. I think it’s should be half that.
New boiler or not?
- Thread starter mp129
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It is probably over the top, but depends on the radiator - they supply, and fit, is it an extra radiator, or a simple straight swap. Get other quotes for the same job.
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If the valves are to remain the same, then no drain down needed imo and definitely overpriced if that’s the case.
The quote states "The radiator to have a new thermostatic valve and a new return valve". I'm not sure why - the radiator needs replacing because it has sprung a leak in the middle of the bottom edge, nowhere near the valves.
Maybe to cover their backs, in case in the future, one does develop a leak?
About the only benefit of swapping to a combi would be a bit of space saved, but you lose your airing cupboard. Any potential Gas saving will take many years, (if ever) to pay for the cost of the alterations.
You say the Heating is working ok, the issue is with the Hot water?
You say the Heating is working ok, the issue is with the Hot water?
what size is the rad and is it a double or single ?
Indicates the issue is probably not with the boiler and changing the pump may not help matters. I would look at a possible circulation issue, (sludge build up), before spending money on new parts you probably don't even need.
Radiator leak may also be related, it's a sign the system could be corroding from the inside out, in which case adding a Combi and pressurising the system could open up a whole new can of worms!
Thanks Harry, Hugh and CountryFan.
Sorry for the delay. A couple of inconvenient bank holidays got in the way.
Blimey. Where do I start? I'm just a layman. How can I argue the toss with a professional heating engineer? Anyway, I've asked another firm to quote.
We bought this house in late 2014. Several radiators sprang leaks a few years later and we had all the radiators replaced. One of the replacements leaked a couple of years ago (from rust, not a valve). I got the firm which had installed them to replace it and raised the issue of rust inhibitor. They added some. Now, a couple of years on, another rusty radiator. All three toilets have also leaked and the downstairs cloakroom ceiling shows stains which indicate past leaks in the airing cupboard above.
I've never known a house with so many plumbing problems.
Should I sell the house, have all the plumbing replaced, or just lie down and wait to drown?
Sorry for the delay. A couple of inconvenient bank holidays got in the way.
Blimey. Where do I start? I'm just a layman. How can I argue the toss with a professional heating engineer? Anyway, I've asked another firm to quote.
We bought this house in late 2014. Several radiators sprang leaks a few years later and we had all the radiators replaced. One of the replacements leaked a couple of years ago (from rust, not a valve). I got the firm which had installed them to replace it and raised the issue of rust inhibitor. They added some. Now, a couple of years on, another rusty radiator. All three toilets have also leaked and the downstairs cloakroom ceiling shows stains which indicate past leaks in the airing cupboard above.
I've never known a house with so many plumbing problems.
Should I sell the house, have all the plumbing replaced, or just lie down and wait to drown?
It reads, as if many of your problems, are due to rust, and sludge - both due to lack of inhibitor. Inhibitor, is something anyone who does any work on your system, ought to make sure there is an adequate amount in your system, in order to avoid these problems. Inhibitor, is not an optional extra, it is an absolutely essential component. You would go have new tyres fitted on your car, then be offered air in them as an option.
I would stand over them, to make sure the bottle of inhibitor goes in the system, it is so very important, in preventing your system rotting from the inside out.
Changing a number of rads indicates a serious problem somewhere.
Get a magnet and check if pipework adjacent to pump and cold feed and open vent .
If full of crap magnet will be attracted to pipework.
Re quote just looks ott try getting someone who's experienced with your type system to look at it.
If your draining down extra cost of converting to S plan minimal. Fit a decent system filter at same time.
Get a magnet and check if pipework adjacent to pump and cold feed and open vent .
If full of crap magnet will be attracted to pipework.
Re quote just looks ott try getting someone who's experienced with your type system to look at it.
If your draining down extra cost of converting to S plan minimal. Fit a decent system filter at same time.
In this situation, invariably the Non Ferrous parts of the Heating system are ok, it's the Ferrous Parts, and particularly Steel Radiators that are prone to the worst effects of corrosion. Pointless just treating the symptoms each time, you need to sort the cause, which as Harry has said, is a lack of Inhibitor.
Basically heating systems are a nice mix of metals, Steel radiators, cast iron Boiler, a few yards of copper pipe linking them up and some brass valves chucked in for good measure. Then we fill them whole lot with water that then starts a nice electrolytic reaction within the system, and begins eating away at the steel Radiators from the inside out, creating Hydrogen gas and black magnetite sludge as a by product, which proceeds to clog up your system.
One bottle of suitable Inhibitor neutralises the water and prevents all this from happening, but so many systems are still operating without again, either it was never added at the start or the system has been drained down for repairs and/or maintenance, and refilled without the inhibitor being replenished.
I don't think you need an entire new system but some considered repairs to the existing will be needed. Any rusty Radiators, look to replace. Whole system would probably benefit from a Powerflush. This is where an aggressive cleaning chemical is added, before water is pumped around the system at high velocity, breaking up and washing out the accumulated black sludge. System, once clean is refilled and the all important Inhibitor added. Any new Boiler must be fitted to a clean system, otherwise the Warranty will be invalidated very quickly, but even if not going down that road, it can extend the life and increase the performance of the existing setup.
At this point I would be inclined to get the system Powerflushed and a Magnetic Filter installed to capture any further crud that may be floating about. If 3 Way Valve is faulty, replace. However lack of Hot Water may be an issue with a blocked cylinder coil, how old and how well insulated is the Cylinder? Your Boiler may well give many more years of service provided it is looked after properly.
Basically heating systems are a nice mix of metals, Steel radiators, cast iron Boiler, a few yards of copper pipe linking them up and some brass valves chucked in for good measure. Then we fill them whole lot with water that then starts a nice electrolytic reaction within the system, and begins eating away at the steel Radiators from the inside out, creating Hydrogen gas and black magnetite sludge as a by product, which proceeds to clog up your system.
One bottle of suitable Inhibitor neutralises the water and prevents all this from happening, but so many systems are still operating without again, either it was never added at the start or the system has been drained down for repairs and/or maintenance, and refilled without the inhibitor being replenished.
I don't think you need an entire new system but some considered repairs to the existing will be needed. Any rusty Radiators, look to replace. Whole system would probably benefit from a Powerflush. This is where an aggressive cleaning chemical is added, before water is pumped around the system at high velocity, breaking up and washing out the accumulated black sludge. System, once clean is refilled and the all important Inhibitor added. Any new Boiler must be fitted to a clean system, otherwise the Warranty will be invalidated very quickly, but even if not going down that road, it can extend the life and increase the performance of the existing setup.
At this point I would be inclined to get the system Powerflushed and a Magnetic Filter installed to capture any further crud that may be floating about. If 3 Way Valve is faulty, replace. However lack of Hot Water may be an issue with a blocked cylinder coil, how old and how well insulated is the Cylinder? Your Boiler may well give many more years of service provided it is looked after properly.
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