uPVC door suspected gearbox failure in the locked position

Hi all.

Have a cheap uPVC door that's failed after just 2 years on a house still under renovation.

The handle hardly moves up or down and the euro cylinder lock wouldn't open. So, I removed the handles and managed to snap the cylinder in half and take it out. Have tried inserting an Allen key to move the mechanism into the unlock position but either I'm not putting the Allen key in the right place to mimic the cylinder lock movement or the gearbox has totally failed ????

I attach photos of the hinges - there are 3 hinges where the pin can be retracted and the 4th hinge on the bottom of the door appears to have an Allen key adjuster and 2 crosshead screws. It's a Spanish made Linneal door.

Any advice apart from breaking the concrete around the door and removing it entirely?

Many thanks

A picture from further back of the whole door would help but that bottom hinge looks like a tilt and turn window hinge

Thank you for replying. I'll look up what that means as I'm clueless . I've attached a couple more photos. Sorry about the poor lighting.

I just wanted to add that a locksmith quoted me and the labour and new gearbox would come to more than I bought the door for, hence just seeing if it's possible for me to get to the gearbox or buy another new door.

Ah I see what that you mean by a tilt and turn hinge. Weird to have it on a door no? It seems to be the only adjustable hinge I can see out of the 4.

I'm not sure if even uncoupling the hinges will allow the door to come off?

You could remove the glass, this would give more ' flex ' in the pvc. Are any of the locking points free at all? ( if so thats again added flex to be able to force the door out of its lock keeps. Dont suppose you remember if it was hookbolts on the look ?
Trying to turn the lock with the Allen key is a bit of art to be honest , it may just be you haven't got it in exactly the right position yet. There is also a possibility that the door has simply ' dropped ' and everything is caught in the keeps, dont suppose you tried to lift the door as you unlocked it before snapping the barrel?. You could always remove a barrel from another door and try that ...if the screw holding the snapped barrel in isnt in the way

Many thanks! I think removing the glass is beyond me and the side of the door where the locking points are, are very tight. Don't know either about hookbolts.

Yes I tried lifting the door before snapping the barrel but no luck. Also, I was never happy at how the Spanish builder installed the door as they cemented it in with a gravel sand mix and didn't use expanding foam and it seemed to be getting harder each week to lift the handle high enough to operate the lock - I think the frame didn't have any ability to move with the season changes. So entirely my fault for leaving it too long to sort. The screw is still in its place but maybe I can use a fine metal saw blade and chop a section out as I have a selection of old Euro cylinders.

I take it removing it from the hinges probably is not going to be a route to go down then

You can try and remove the hinge pins, will depend on whether its hookbolts or not ss to whether it will come out. As Crank has said though , tilt and turn hinges on a door are incredibly unusual and if that bottom one is definetly the same as a tilt turn bottom hinge ( which it does look like ) than normally you have to lift them off a pin , which means releasing the pins may not work. The glass isnt too hard to remove tbh and that door sash will be heavy with it still in place too.

Thanks again.

I'll try lifting the door from the bottom as you rightly say, it's a heavy door and I remember my back telling me just so when I originally bought it .

I'll look at the glass option or maybe as I have no working space to the side of that 4th hinge either.

Just don't know how the locksmith I called was going to solve it either as he was confident he could get to the gearbox without too much trouble

The locksmith will.be using special tools That will get in around the edges of the door to move the existing lock pins/hooks. They will charge a lot though lol. You'll be surprised how much leverage you can get with the glass out, its still not straightforward bit can certainly be manipulated

Hello again. An update in case this helps anyone else in future.

I watched this video (youtu.be/RB6mnuL-C3w?is=Ihle1Z5g9yQ7rzf-) to understand how a pvc door mechanism and cylinder lock interact together.

Then, after butchering a plastic dentists mirror to fit inside the hole where the cylinder used to be, I managed to see which part of the gearbox the euro cylinder marries up with to unlock/lock the handle (was at the top and not to the right where I originally assumed it to be). An Allen key wouldn't budge it at all - I ended up using a long handled screwdriver and a heck of a load of force to move part of the mechanism in the direction away from the latch.

But after a lot of swearing and backache the door is now open. The gearbox appears to be working ok (Lord knows how as I really hammered it) and have fitted a temporary euro cylinder lock until I can buy one with an internal thumb-lock and lubricated everything possible with silicon spray. It doesn't appear the door has dropped but I've removed one of the 4 receptacles that the locking pins (photo 2) slide into on the frame as it stops the door shutting cleanly and assume that caused the misalignment. That I'm sure I can rectify by chiselling out the mortar around that part of the frame and replacing with expanding foam.

A huge thank you to Crank and Ronnie for their assistance. Have a lovely Easter

Glad you got it open without the expense of the locksmith.
If that roller was catching then something is out of alignment. Ger a 1800mm spirit level on the part of the door frame and see if its bowed at all, as you elude it may be the cement ispushing part of the door frame out

Yes, i already put a level on the frame after getting the door open and it's easy to see that the frame near the handle and latch is being compressed inwards by about 1.5mm or so.

The reason I was suspicious of this being the cause was because I've already had to have builders back TWICE to rectify a hard to open garage door where they hadn't used expanding foam ‍. Different builders too so I think it's just how they do things over here.

Cheers again