croydoncorgi

Hello Croydoncorgi. HDI contact you - I have a power max 155 that had its blending valve replaced and I still have tepid - no pressure hot water. BG says coild scaled and I need a new boiler. I have read that the coil could be power flush or descale
Luke3917

Hi Croydoncorgi, I'm looking for a manual for a Hermann icon 23t. A CC search brought up a post in which you said you had a pdf of this. I'd be very grateful if you could email me a copy. Thanks in advance, my email address is [email protected]

Ian (elkato531)

Hi croydoncorgi, do you cover cr2 6ep for powerflushing of my unvented system with vaillant thermo compact conventional boiler please?

thanks

Sunil

Hi John,

How the hell do you add "friends"??

Took the scrap into Nebbet's on 23 June and they were giving £9000/tonne for braziery; 2850/tonne for brass & 9600/tonne for copper. For mixed metal (rads, boilers, etc) they were giving £150/tonne.

HTH

Pete

Hi John,don't worry about any changes I'll
Have a look an restore the original document.

Best way to use it is simply copy and paste the file to somewhere else on your pc then do what you want and save it there.if it's altered or amended in your/mine/anyone elses drop box then it's designed to save the alteration.

Drop box is good for file sharing small amounts but not the best solution for 12Gig of data.

Take care and happy Xmas.

Like I say, I hope for the best and maybe am not a realist but I am what I am.

Oddly enough I’m off to a Baxi 100plus tomorrow morning. Looking at the picture in your album I had exactly the same expansion vessel problem on this boiler last year. Same cause as well. If it’s still next to the boiler tomorrow I’ll photo it. Warned the customer about it but he didn’t do anything except go on holiday over the cold weather and bang.

I wrote the bit about making installers raise their game badly and you misunderstood. I just heard it when listening to the older guys as an apprentice and commented on it when I understood what was being said. I never tried to get anyone to be better, I'm no saint, it wasn’t in my interest to and if someone’s happy to do rubbish work and there’s someone daft enough to pay for it, it’s a shame but that’s life. That might reflect poorly on me but it’s the truth. Every program on poor installers simply frightens the public and makes it more likely they’ll be loyal to someone who tries to give good service.

Our second car is 20 years old next year – Mercedes aren’t going bust yet but I will be with the running costs, it’s got to go soon. You could make 10 Aygos at 60mpg with the recycled metal in it but the cost and energy of breaking the car and remaking new ones is probably more than the high energy cost of keeping it going plus it gets at least 9 more people on the road.

If you find an answer to that conundrum let me know.

Not asking for that, I think it's reasonable to expect the manufacturers to be specific in what they offer under the terms of a guarantee which is what an installer might use to make a sale. What's covered when they use an agent.

Even if they do nothing it might concentrate Biasi's mind regarding the situation with transam to know other professional installers watch and are aware of the situation. Candidly I know of no installer personally who uses or recommends Biasi. There are some on here who say they do and have been successful with them.

I am a softee and always believe the best of people and companies until I know better, others are more cynical or realistic (take your pick).

As for Vokera and other reputable maunufacturer's, all they want is that all their boilers are put in by real pro's who take the time to do the job properly hence manufacturer's incentives, approved installer scheme's and training. All the installer wants is a product that works first time and not preaching or blame but assistance and support from the manufacturer. Trouble is both are paid by the end user a large proportion of whom think price is king.

You can ISO a production line but you can't ISO a short course johnny who buys cheap, throws jobs in and rides of into the sunset but screams crap boiler on DIYnot.

God, do you realise I've been hearing this and then saying the same sort of thing since the eighties and nothing much has changed, it's just become more important because the boilers are less tolerant of missuse.

Hi Croydoncorgi

I am still having problems with our Digistat. I would greatly appreciate it if you could find the time to read and answer the message I sent on 10 Jan - see copy below
'Thanks again for your reply. You are correct the boiler was 'active' but not firing so the radiators were not getting hot. I would not have pressed the Override button as I don't know where it is. This morning the boiler didn't fire and the receiver was showing a constant red light(the first time I have seen this). So I tried the normal battery solution but I had to do this twice before the boiler 'fired' ie green light was on constant. Having read the installation instructions for the receiver it seems that ours has not been correctly placed; the bottom is 180mm directly above the top of the boiler, the top 30mm from the ceiling and the left side 30mm from a metal pipe (infact there are 4 metal pipes within 200mm of the left side. Should I recomission the Digistat and the SCR and/or does the SCR need moving? The Digistat itself is 150mm above an alarm setting box. Do you have any suggestions or should I wait until the new battery draw is installed and work from there?'

Thank you and Best regards Nick

Hi Croydoncorgi

Thanks again for your reply. You are correct the boiler was 'active' but not firing so the radiators were not getting hot. I would not have pressed the Override button as I don't know where it is. This morning the boiler didn't fire and the receiver was showing a constant red light(the first time I have seen this). So I tried the normal battery solution but I had to do this twice before the boiler 'fired' ie green light was on constant. Having read the installation instructions for the receiver it seems that ours has not been correctly placed; the bottom is 180mm directly above the top of the boiler, the top 30mm from the ceiling and the left side 30mm from a metal pipe (infact there are 4 metal pipes within 200mm of the left side. Should I recomission the Digistat and the SCR and/or does the SCR need moving? The Digistat itself is 150mm above an alarm setting box. Do you have any suggestions or should I wait until the new battery draw is installed and work from there? Best regards Nick

Hi Croydoncorgi
Thanks for your very prompt reply. Just this morning the stat read 19, the flame symbol was showing and the green light on the receiver was on constant but the bolier was not on. So we did the battery solution and the boiler came on. Due to your comment on the battery holder I did contact Drayton on their technical line. I was told due to problems with the battery draw, as they called it, they had made modifications to later units. So Drayton are sending me to new battery draws and fitting instructions, so hopefully I can follow the instructions and solve the problem. If I see any more posts relating to Digistat problems I can let them know about the new battery draws that are available. Thanks again for your help and I will let you know how we get on.

Hi Croydoncorgi

I have seen your replies to posts on DIYnot, so I was wondering if you could answer a query I have about a Drayton Digistat RF2. Obviously I understand that you are busy especially right now with people finding their heating is not great in this cold weather.

It seems that there is a problem with the SCR Receiver, receiving a signal from the Digistat. The system together with a Bosch Worcester 37cdi was installed in April 2008 when we had a two storey extension added to the house. We live in a 1930s house in south-east London. The Digistat is located in the hallway attached to wooden cladding which creates an under stairs cupboard, in which is located the electricity distribution box and the electricity and gas meters.

The SCR Receiver is located in a utility room above the boiler close to the ceiling, so the signal on its most direct route (appox 3.5m) has to pass through a layer of wooden cladding and a brick wall. I mention this as I don't know if the locations will be the cause of the problem.

There have several times since the installation, and more recently this morning, that the the heating has not come on even though the stat has been set at 21 and the reading on the stat has been several degree below this. For example at 9.15am this morning the temp on the stat was 18 degrees but the heating should have been on as the stat had been set at 21. At other times the flame symbol has been showing on the digistat but the boiler has not fired up, also at the other times the temperature has gone to 22 but the boiler has not switched off.

We have rectified the situation by removing the AA batteries and allowing the digistat screen to go blank and then putting the batteries back in. This is obviously just temporary fix, so I would be very grateful for any advice you have and how solve the problem.

Yours very gratefully

Nick Adriano

Thanks for all your help. You actually answered the one question, with hindsite, I needed the answer to ie that the mains is not part of the thermal store. What I did was to fill the system using the hose from a ground floor radiator drain point. My error was to assume the system had filled from the header tank previously. It was the header tank to thermal store pipe which was airlocked. Thankfully, the pumps are all still quiet and working so my turning it on previously does not seem to have done any damage.

Furthermore, my 2 new rads are working well and for the first time since I bought a Wimpey town house, the ground floor is close to the temperature of the other 2 floors and, again for the first time maybe since this house was built, the rad in the downstairs toilet is working!!

Whilst I am not a professional plumber I am a professional handyman and have built bathroms from scratch and done a lot of plumbing jobs before, however, these BoilerMate 2000s are a very complex and, in my opinion, overly tricky piece of kit. Coupled with Mr Wimpey's iffy plumbing it adds up to a bit of a nightmare. My neighbours spent £900 when there's stopped working after 2 years and it was, i think, the 5th plumber who eventually figured out it was one of the £25 sensors which was the problem. The first 2 plumbers had told them to call an electrican and he could not figure it out either!

Once again, thank you for your help and assistance.
Andrew

Hi, I'm in Chafford Hundred in Essex, just north of the Dartford crossing and just east of Lakeside. I fugured it was an airlock but am at a bit of a loss as to how to remove it. I have various lengths of hose I can attach to the system but I'm not sure if turning the mains on will affect is as there is a mains feed to the system...being a mains pressure system.

Actually, before I refilled it I did use mains on a hose to push an airlock out of one radiator which has never worked in the downstairs loo. The water very quickly came out of the ground floor hall radiator so I think all is well there and I doubt it got far enough up the system to affect anything else.

Any help or advice would be much appreciated as the fan heater it helping here but it is still damned cold!!
Andrew

Hi, I was reading about problems with the dreaded BoilerMate 2000 and it seems as if you have some experience with these things. I have lived in my house, which has one, for 2 1/2 years and have already replaced the sensors once so have some knowledge of how they function.
Last week I added to radiators to the system on the ground floor and, so that i could connect the new ones up, was forced to drain down the system. The problem now is that it will not refill!! It seemed to have refilled once but there was an airlock in the pipe to the boiler so I tried draining it again and some water has come out of the ground floor drains on the rads, and some from the boiler feed drain but now the header tank is full and nothing more is coming out.

Can you suggest what to do next??

Thanks
Andrew

Hi Croyddon corgi, i need some advice plese, i have a honeywell sundial y system in my house that i plumbed in in 1986, still go the original pump and boiler great, however i have just decorated my lounge out and wanted to replace the outdated honeywell roomstat, with one that i purchased the horstman 7 programmable stat, (battery operated) i know they work on live and switched live, but in my original roomstat (photo can be supplied ) i have four wires coming in the top one has nothing on it the next two both have power on the them and the bottom one when i turn up the room stat also has power, inidcating to me that this is the switched live, other persons have said i should not have four wires, but i read one of your articles and you mention a four wire roomstat, unfortunately my cable is just numbered and not coloured as when i got it , it was heat resistant butal cable very expensive, but better still ''free '' question is why would i have two live terminals, in the stat, as i said i could provide or e mail a picture to you, i know you cannot say definatively what the problem is , but the electrics when i installed all the plumbing was undertaken by a fully qualifield electrician who now works off shore on the rigs, and i have lost touch, kindest regards David