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Thanks, and yes I'll wait for JobAndKnock's advice. I can practice on a test piece or to have the depth set, I can potentially use a router bit rather than a drill bit possibly?

I'm not that experienced and I don't want to drill too deep which apparently is easy to do. So the depth stop is the main rason for getting the jig. It is a bit strange that the screw holes for the hinge are off. Maybe squaring rhe hinge, marking and using a self-centering drill bit is the wat...

Thanks, did you forget to post the link to the video?

Most kitchen cabinets would use an overlay concealed hinges. My question is specifically about concealed inset hinges which are slightly different.

I'd appreciate your advice. Is the Kreg KHI Concealed Hinge Jig (or equivalent) good for concealed inset hinges?

I'd appreciate your advice. Is the Kreg KHI Concealed Hinge Jig (or equivalent) good for inset hinges?

Discovery channel?! Try Builders Depot, Screwfix, Travis Perkins, Lawsons

They're called both floorboard brads or brad nails (in most builder marchants in London) or cut nails, although the latter look a bit different when I search for them online. It maybe a regional variation, who knows. I can drive them in ok, but my partner said she prefers the pointy ones which i...

These are the floor brads I mean

That makes perfect sense. I also pre-drill with a 3mm bit which works well.

I can't find any floorboard brads with sharp ends, they only sell the ones with the square ends which are harder to hammer in. Can you point me to a retailer that sell them?

Yes. Thanks

Thanks. Sorry if my question was confusing. I meant to ask about filling the gap between the bay and the window frame first and then paint the the windows, or the other way round? Does it matter? The wooden window/sashes don't need filling.the wood is as good as new although the preserver will...

I can get the Troupret masonry powder filler locally so that is easy. These hardwood sash windows are 3 years old. No need to stain-block. I will use a water-based primer, an undercoat, and Weathershield satin final coat unless you think it is not advisable. Whats a better way, fill gap first...

I am redecorating my wooden sash windows. They need repainting obs and the gap needs filling. I'm thinking of using sika mortar fix or a sand/cement mix. What's best, paint the windows first and then seal or the other way around?

Sorry but these are the best pics I can provide. When zoom in at the bird's eye image of the sill I can see the individual grains of sand and cement where managed to remove the top layer. The skirling boards were removed because I am changing the floor in the house. It is unrelated the problem...

I'll get the downpipe extended as you suggested. Can you explain a bit more about which hopper I need and how I would fit it onto my existing guttering? I'd also like to repair the sill even if foe aesthetics. What's a durable way of fixing it so it doesn't look so tatty?

Thanks. Does it matter if I use a straight coupler to extend or use an s-bend coupler so I can run the extended bit along the junction where a roof meets the wall on top of the lead flushing?

My guttering need sorting. The down pipe chuck the rainwater on the single story extension roof and is soaking the adjascent external wall. What's the best way of sorting it? Thanks in advance for your advice

There's a little bit of damp just under the window but hard to see in pic, see attached. I also cleaned up the tip of the sill and took a pic. It is very possible that the water is coming in through the lead flushing but it's like to be made worse by the downpipe that is chucking lots of water...