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(I assume by off-cut you mean a spare board).

Yes, indeed, I have a spare board. That was my plan: take an original board and some of the new boards to a carpenter's shop, he chops, and I leave smiling. It sounds like this is very doable. Now to find someone to do it...

Thanks Dan. About the heater: I think it just got knock a bit and that was noise of it banging on the bolts it is hanging from (I live on a main street). I don't know what a stainless HEX is, but I will take your word for it. How frequently does that need to be cleaned? Currently, it has a...

You don't want me near a circular saw... :) I neither own one or plan to buy one. I could do the groove to groove method, but I imagine that wouldn't be as good as you would have a low integrity piece in the system (why have two pieces + one weak piece). I don't know. I am the furthest...

We have been getting an annual inspection on our Vaillant ecotec28 for some years now, partly to keep up warranty and partly to do the right thing. We just had a recent boiler service and I noticed that the condensate trap wasn't cleaned. Is that an issue? Should it not be cleaned? Also, all...

here is a pic of the board.

We have engineered wood floors in a room upstairs. Long boring story, but we need to buy some more wood. From what I can tell, it's an age old problem. We can match the veneer, width and thickness, but not the joining edge. Our solution is to buy a pack of boards and hire a carpenter to make...

Ok. Well the room is well lit, so the light is not critical. I like the super glue idea. I am thinking that if i take something the strength and shape of a tape measure, glue it on, and then grab and rotate, it might work. Otherwise I think smashy smashy might be the answer. But

So, is my drilling idea bad? I want to drill a small hole into the black plastic neck to that I can either use the drill bit to hold it, or put a screw in so I can grab onto it. I assume if the hole are small and I don't hit metal it should be ok to do that?

I found the installation instructions. It's not a spring or anything. it looks like it is threaded. in any case, I don't see springs. the point of the drilling is then I could put a screw into the black part to I could grip it. As it stands, I can't twist disperser off because the black...

So, I need to twist the white disperser off to change the bulb. Unfortunately, the black plastic thing it is threaded into seems to not be fixed to anything. The gap is not wide enough to get my fingers in and, besides, I don't think i could get enough force on it. What are my options? I...

Iggifer: that was the problem! Yes, I just pulled the metal contact out a bit and it's working like a charm now. Thanks all for your help.

The light has been flickering for a couple of months now. you had to adjust the bulb to stop the flickering. A few days ago, however, it just stopped working. I have replaced it with working bulbs and they don't work at all.

so you think the cord clips are what's holding it all together? the ones at the top? I could try to pry them open.

Ok. So I tried to to remove it, but I couldn't. Here are some pictures. 1) Shows that I think I need a socket with a grip (first pic). 2) and 3), however, I tried to capture that I don't really know how to take this thing off. The "hat" rotates with respect to the bottom, but doesn't seem...

so, if you unthread the little nib up top, it seems like the fitting "grips" the cord. So, I assume, I need to get one like that? can anyone recommend one? The trouble is I don't know what to google. "lamp e27 fitting"?

I think the weight of the pendant is taken by the "hat" (which is pictured. This hat is not detachable) of the fitting. ok. I will take the fitting off and repost. I was hoping to avoid that as I wanted the fitting to stay in place before i ordered one. but hey ho.

hello, I have a pendant light over the dining room table which has blown. A picture is as shown. The label on the socket says '230 V Max 75W E27' with a little light bulb picture on it. There is also a part number of GS3558. I want to replace just the socket and assume this is possible...

Thanks for the tip. I wouldn't actually mind changing all the doors to something a little less plain. we would have to replace 5 interior doors, but I just looked and a slightly fancier looking interior door goes for what you said, 20 quid. Just to clarify, does "chamfering" a door mean...

I don't really know what you mean "the lock side will have a leading edge etc". Can you explain again? and if the door doesn't fit perfectly, i could plane it, right? I guess it could be really bad. that's what i thought, but then you said: How can I tell? I understand what you are...