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Thanks, I don't have the luxury of waiting until spring. We are having our existing garage demolished and this shed needs to be built to house the stuff (ideally next 4-5 weeks) I already have all the materials ready to go (timber, blocks and type 1) Just trying to gauge the best way to...

Thanks, already got all the materials ready to go (timber, blocks and type 1). Just trying to gauge the best way to attack, I either need to order some more type 1 or clean stone and create a firm base on top of geotextile, or stick with my original plan of individual pads.

I am just concerned about sinkage over time if the ground is on the softer side or at times like now where it's just so saturated. I'd rather get it right now than see the shed twisting in 2 or 3 years.

At the moment im unsure what would be better - 1. Digging individual pads (deeper than intended) lined with a membrane and filled with type 1 2. Creating a firm raised subbase and then putting the blocks directly on this base. Steps - Remove slop and standing water and dig down to firmer...

Maybe I was being over generous with the amounts although the method itself is a proven construction technique. Recycled crushed concrete is far superior than Type 1 in terms of permeability. I was just interested if anyone has done something similar.

Hi All Essentially I want to build a raised timber frame sitting on concrete blocks to support a 17ft plastic keter shed (storing general items nothing heavy). My plan was to dig individual holes and fill with compacted mot type 1, followed by mortar, blocks, doc and 5x2 timber. (See example...

Hi All Not sure if this needs to be in the garden sub forum but I thought it would benefit from general building input in terms of foundations etc. Essentially I want to build a raised timber frame sitting on concrete blocks to support a 17ft plastic keter shed (storing general items nothing...

Hi All To cut a long story short, our garden is slightly sloped and the rear suffers with flooding at this time of year. It's been quite bad recently with the endless rain. Typically the worst bit is where I plan on building a base for a new shed so I'm just trying to sort out appropriate...

Thanks for the replies. The house has air bricks that are all clear. I was just concerned by this white substance and if it's harmful to us or the house. I can always increase the ventilation if needed but aside from the white substance and musty smell the joists etc all look dry and clean...

Hi All I am planning on insulating my suspended living room floor with PIR boards however upon lifting a board to investigate and come up with a plan I'm greated with the following. I was hoping it was a concrete oversight which I could sweep and clear up to aid ventilation etc but it appears...

Thoughts on the Sika Rapid DPM?

£150+ for 10kg Sill screed first then dpm? If the dpm acts as a barrier then how come the first poor of slc doesn't fail? Thanks

Hi guys I need to uplift broken / loose marley tiles and screed the room in preparation for sheet vinyl. The subfloor under tiles has bitumin residue however there are parts where it's pulled this up and it's now just the old substrate. There is no DPM as house is from 1930. My question is...

Thanks My plan was to grind them down as they are only slightly proud and then screed over and through into utility. Never seen grano before...

Thanks for the replies. Has anyone got any tips when it comes to doing this job, I've already read the sticky thread and watched every video on YouTube, but any first hand tips would be great!. I'm going to buy a couple of large mixing buckets, have a mate help mix and me lay the screed...

Right little update. I've had two guys in to look at the job and both have quoted on removing tiles, adding dpm and then screeding. One quote was £650 and the other was £695 This is more than I was hoping for so I'm back to thinking about sorting it myself. I'm aware of the costs involved to...

Any idea regarding Ardex NA and the kitchen tiles? I'm also unsure weather to screed first then apply dpm then a further screed, or dpm straight onto subfloor after a good hoover then one screed coat. One of the reasons I also want to leave the tiles in the kitchen as apart from being down...

Thanks Do you think it would work if I kept the tiles down in the kitchen which are very solid but lifted the dining room. Then ardex NA dining room up to level of tiles in kitchen. Then prime dining room and ardex the whole lot to get one uniform level as it says it can be applied to tiles...

Still need help with this. Had a flooring guy come round who specialises in kardean and screeding floor etc. Said its best to lift the tiles, install dpm and then latex over. I haven't received a quote yet but he was saying the dpm alone is about £180 a unit and it's possible I'll need...

I could lift the tiles In dining room but would a full covering of SLC adhere to the substrate below as it's soft in places as when you lift the tiles they pull some of the surface off. The Mapei i poored seems to have stuck well so I could do this to it all and somehow try and meet the...