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Thanks but it's still not clear. On a warm deck roof, the EPDM is secured to timber that runs behind the fascia....I'm trying to work out what this timber fixes to on the top of the insulation as there is only an 18mm board from what I can see and so nothing substantial to fix to.

I will be - the felt was only because it was easy to get just to hold off until the weekend. But I'm still unsure as to how to finish the edges.....? :?

Hi, I've had my flat lead bay window roof stolen - I've currently managed to make it whether tight and secure with felt and ply but looking to do a proper job this weekend. I'm trying to establish how you finish the edges of the roof - would anyone have a cross sectional diagram at all...

You can always take the chimney breast out upstairs and rebuild with stud work instead to retain the character.

That's the same reason I had them visit. Charged a reasonable amount - can't remember off the top of my head though I'm afraid...

I've used this company before and would recommend them: http://www.dsace.co.uk/

It would be far easier to just cover it with 50mm Celotex, should stop a large majority of the heat escaping.

It's normally recommended on the inside as the chimney in most houses backs onto a party wall. If yours doesn't then yes you can. If it does and you have a suspended wooden floor you can vent it beneath the floor and get the air flow that way (making sure other air bricks beneath the floor...

Ok good news, would it hurt to put that in anyway? Yes lintel at 90 degrees to replace a load bearing wall. I was going to leave half a brick in on the old wall to make it up but it'll be a right pain when the room gets filled with furniture.

Hi, I need to rest a Catnic on a single skin wall but across it so I'll only have a bearing of 100mm. It's already quite a high load (underneath a bathroom) so would prefer to get the full 150mm as an absolute minimum. How can I up my bearing size? Was going to build an engineering brick...

Thanks Woody, I'll get the building notice put in so it's ready for when they get back from their break.

Hi, Not sure if this belongs in the BR section but when do I need calcs and when don't I? I have just taken out a load bearing wall and that was signed off with structural calcs no problems. I've also put in a lintel above a ground floor window but that didn't require calcs. I ask...

Thanks for the replies, I'd like to be able to use it to be honest as it is a useful property of the alarm. At the moment though it does just call me when it goes off.

Hi, I have a G2-44+ connected to my phone line at home. When it goes off I've managed to get it calling my mobile and all working. However, when it does it's periodic check in with the "ARC" it obviously expects a certain message because it keeps giving me ARC Failure. Anyone know if...

I don't buy the mantra of 'the course said this so I don't do it that way' for the course to say that they must have some justification. If it's the for the wrong scale I accept but if I'm testing for live before hand I'm looking for a a 230ish reading...and I can't think of anything that would...

I'm still confused as to why testing with a multimeter is dangerous when live checks are done before and after.......

BAS when I applied for mine the charges weren't on that sheet - I did the same rewire cost basis and they said there was a different charge for Part P works.

Ah ok, I wasn't sure whether his comment was directed at the OP or you. I think if example 'full plans' were included it would make people alot more inclined to go down that route. When I was looking at the options it all seemed rather vague and lacking in details with regards to what the BCO...

BAS I assume you mean go down the route of qualified electrician instead?

Im paying £170 to Birmingham City Council BC for my 3 bed semi rewire. No other forms had to be filled in - I just said complete rewire and they approved it.