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No - you line the walls with insulation boards, tape the joints and then put the stud work on the inside and fix through the insululation. If you go to the Celotex site they have a pdf you can download that has all you need to do.

I'm doing something similar now and I increased the battens to 45mm so I could fit 47mm back boxes in without it hitting the celotex.

What are the walls? Cavity or solid? If solid - 50mm Celotex on the walls then fix with battens like bradleigh1977 suggested.

What about all the electrics? Are you going to need to insulate? Are you going to skim coat?

As someone who has 2 public drains and a manhole within my property I say thanks! Can't see how this is a bad thing?

How many stories? More than 2 and you need fire rated ones.

Get three quotes and go from there.

Thanks - seems count intuitive to be hammering in a screw! One final question.....what's the difference between this and a frame fixing? Cheers,

Apologies for the simple question! But with hammer fixings which bit do you hammer? I'm assuming the plug into the wall but I thought it's better to have it push tight so you don't quash the plug in the hole. Cheers,

I've just done this. I propped from the outside and put the lintel in from the inside so nothing interfered. That said, it was below a window so most of the load was already distributed to the sides.

Could it be water pressure related - I've found that can have a massive effect on the temperature that they give out.

~£80 I'd have thought - I had calculations done for £120. The biggest cost is normally the removal of plaster and then making good so they can actually see the structural elements. If it's nicely decorated I'd leave it for the time being,

For a little over a £100 quid you can have a structural engineer come out and design a suitable lintel. Surely that's worth it?.....

Get an isolater fitted - you can then extend the tails to the CU yourself.

It works both ways though....he pulls up the floorboards and finds it's rotten OR he gets a measurement wrong cuts in the wrong place and spends the rest of the day making good. I've always had the approach that the quote should be agreed on a list of reasonable assumptions (as detailed on...

No I'm happy to do it - just like as large a room as possible. Anyway having spoken to Celotex and LABC the recommended course of action is to screw through the insulation with hammer fixings doing away with the need for a head plate. My rafters are actually 75mm so 25mm board inbetween with...

I was thinking just insulate under them, leaving the 50mm depth of the rafter as the room for ventilation. It's going to eat into my room space my rather alot!

Thanks Noseall, My rafters are only 50mm thick so looks like I'll need to put lots on the underside!

Hi, I'm renovating a 1930s semi and abit unsure about this bit....I need to put in 50mm PIR board against the (solid) external walls and then build a stud wall in front. Upstairs the rafters "cutoff" the corner of the room. I've got a picture to help understand...