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Yes, the round holes for the drills are obvious, it's the teardrop shapes for the screws that seemed odd.

This is probably a very dumb question, but I'm uncertain why the screw gauges on this strip of Plasplugs are that elongated teardrop shape. Is the idea that the slot for (say) the 5mm plug is sized to indicate the maximum and minimum thicknesses of screw thread that can be used with that plug...

Thankyou!

With one of our toilets, when the cistern is about 95% refilled the stream of water becomes just a drip, which goes on effectively forever since it'll never get to the completely full mark before someone else needs to flush. It's just loud enough to be annoying at night when the house is quiet...

Ignore - found a YT video that covered everything I needed to know.

OK, I understand... I think :) The only manhole cover I can find is in the shared driveway between us and our neighbours (it says "Osmadrain Inspection Chamber"), and it's secured with large screws in each corner, so I'm not going to mess with that, I'll get an expert in.

From my POV as a plumbing layperson, that seems counter-intuitive. What's the mechanism by which a blockage allows an apparently completely normal flush that doesn't back up in the bowl, but actually leads to a *lower* water level?

OK, the toilet is now flushing completely normally - no hint of backing up - and at the end of the flush the water level is where it normally sits, but over the next few minutes it sinks to below the visible "tidemark" established over years.

I'm not actually sure if we have a manhole.

So about a week ago, I noticed that the water level in our downstairs toilet was higher than usual. Coincidentally, this was the same day that the flush in one of our upstairs toilets stopped working due to a disintegrated washer. I figured that it was probably due to the kids being...

Thankyou! Final dumb question - the rubber doughnut in a close-coupling seal kit sandwiches between the metal plate and the toilet bowl, not between the plate and the cistern?

OK, turns out the hole in the cistern is 2" but the siphon outlet is 1.5" ID. Looks like the flange and washer on the siphon itself take care of filling the gap? I won't need to buy any other kind of adapter?

Thankyou!

Photo below. Not sure how helpful it is, if at all.

I've never done any toilet DIY before, but I need to replace a siphon in a close-coupled cistern. Googling around, none of the usual DIY suppliers seem to indicate whether their siphons are for 1.5" or 2" connections, but most of the close-coupling kits with sealing rings seem to be for 1.5"...

This lock has been getting progressively more unreliable, to the point where now we can't unlock it from inside, the key will only turn a few degrees. From outside, the key works as smooth as glass with no resistance whatsoever. Is it fixable in a way that allows us to keep using the existing keys?

Thanks all - so does this likely mean the PRV needs replacing? I'd hope that such a new cylinder wouldn't have any more serious issues.

Yes, there's a drip through the tundish. As mentioned above, the cylinder was only replaced about 18 months ago as the final solution to a problem that started with us noticing a rushing water noise. That's when we first discovered what a tundish was - there was a proper stream of water...

Bingo! There's a drip through the tundish. That's annoying, as the cylinder was only replaced about 18 months ago.

To the right of the window marked "Toilet/bathroom", and several feet away from the outside wall. The foot of the bath is under the bottom of that window, the cylinder is roughly where the head of the bath is (pointing towards the front of the house). The bath is currently in use, so will post...