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  1. J

    2 port valve

    Hello I have searched previous posts relating to 2 port valves trying to find the solution to my problem.... My 2 port valve paddle was loose. the reason I found this out was when I switched the boiler on it would stay on full blast all the time and I tried to find the solution. I found...
  2. J

    HOT HOT HOT!!!

    Cheers Seco will give that a go in a couple of weeks when I'm back :-)
  3. J

    HOT HOT HOT!!!

    I could well be crud. I had a blockage in a pipe a few years ago. Is it as simple as shutting the water off... draining and checking for a block??
  4. J

    Can I lay these blocks "Intact" for hardcore layer

    Personally I wouldn't. Being that it is a 'temporary' structure you might get away with it obviously depending on what weight you are putting on it. If it were me I would use type 1 on terram. Can't beat it with a stick!!
  5. J

    cracks in concrete cills

    If you have a photo it could be useful - however... As far as I'm aware there are no products on the market to repair hairline cracks in concrete. With the expansion and contraction you get with concrete you would need to rake out the crack to around 7-10mm and then fill with an epoxy resin...
  6. J

    HOT HOT HOT!!!

    Programmer off for heating and as low as is it can go on the room stat. The valve has resistance on it... I take it that's a good thing as I can feel moving parts inside :-) still chucking out all the heat in the world to the rads though :-(
  7. J

    HOT HOT HOT!!!

    That's the trouble.... Switching the programmer doesn't work?!? At present I turn off the boiler (by turning the stat down) as the heating will blast out (I think the stat has gone on the boiler - unless you think it's something else). I am looking for a way, without closing all the rads, to...
  8. J

    HOT HOT HOT!!!

    Nice one!! Is there any way of testing it to make sure it works? Or can i manually lock it to hot water only?
  9. J

    Stihl sawing a new doorway.

    I am glad to have been of assistance :lol: In relation to the chain saw for cutting out door openings.... never used in 'real life' lol. I am a site manager in construction and the only tool we would ever use is a masonry saw (aka stihl saw / spinner / petrol saw etc). Don't forget your...
  10. J

    Nomoreply V hardibacker

    With Hardibacker no skill is really required. Yes the boards have to be screwed down and yes you have to lay the tape into the joints with tile adhesive unfortunately. Screwing the boards down is easy enough (don't forget to miss any underfloor pipes). For the tape and joint - lightly fill the...
  11. J

    Hardibacker board adhesive

    Cheers Gcol :D
  12. J

    Stihl sawing a new doorway.

    Hello I am guessing that the thickness of the frame is 44mm? If it is then the s/o you need is - 955mm across. If it is not 44mm then follow this simple check below: - Size of door + Frame + 10mm either side to fit the door in and level it + 7mm to allow door to swing in the opening...
  13. J

    HOT HOT HOT!!!

    Hello. My name is James and I am a site manager in construction and therefore when it comes to central heating systems have not got a flippin clue :( Hence why I'm here (obviously!?!?!). The problem is simple - I cannot get hot water through the central heating system without having the...
  14. J

    Hardibacker board adhesive

    In short... no. The weight of the tiles will tear it clean off the wall. It has to be mechanically fixed to a wall at something like 400mm centres vertically and horizontally (check website first). You'll have fun cutting that stuff to as it blunts every tool known to man kind. If you have...
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