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It wouldn’t be my first choice either, but some trays MI’s specify it.

I think most people use rapid set. Or silicone, or even exp foam. I’ve always used mortar, but will probably go rapid set on the next one.

Cool, I’m very tempted to do this then: Offer tray up, check it’ll sit level on some rapidset or silicone or whatever the instructions say Tank walls, all the way down to floor, only use tape on wall corner When tanking dry, thick beads of stixall on walls and tray pushed tight to them and...

I’m going on the assumption that the solid silicone layer between tray side and wall is permanent and impermeable. I can’t recall ever seeing silicone under compression disintegrate much, but yeah if it did it’d be an issue.

Yeah, that’s what I’ve always done. I’m always keen to make life easier though, and am tempted by @noseall method above. Saves the faff of masking the tray etc.

Spot on, cheers. I’m also thinking of tanking the walls first then putting the tray in and siliconing it to the tanked wall. This seems easier than masking it off like I’ve done in the past.

I’ve gotta do one soon, and I reckon I’ll do it this way rather than how I’ve always done it (masked tray and tanked a few mm onto it). Is this a fairly common thing? Never seen anyone do it but it makes sense to me and can’t see any downsides, and it’s easier

I’m fitting a concealed shower and can’t work out how this outlet will work with the tanking. I’ve done this a fair bit with bar type shower mixers, and I’m used to sealing the tanking around the 2x 15mm pipes sticking out the wall with bar mixers, but for this one it looks like there’s just...

I know hammered in noggins are apparently a no no nowadays, but can’t quite work out why, if they’re on the “protected” side of the fire protection? Something to do with steel twisting and dislodging them?

Did think (and hope!) that but same result from the taps

Worcester greenstar 30i combi, 9 years old. A year ago hot water started going on a 1 minute ish cycle hot-lukewarm. Got a GSE out and plate heat exchanger replaced. All good, until now (a year ish later) when it happened again, totally noticeably for a day or two. Got another GSE booked in for...

Does it happen when temperature changes quickly? could be thermal movement

Once you’ve got the 3 courses out, just take the extra few out for the bearing at each end. Half brick bearing is gonna be fine for this, rather than try and go beyond to get 150mm. Might just lift out, or gently with a bolster, lump hammer, SDS. Or stitch drill out… don’t think you’ll...

Pretty much exactly as you say, the fact that the soffit is off will make it easier. 150mm ish bearing each side. you’d need to fix the cavity tray against inner skin and have a slope to weep holes, although whether one’s actually needed if there wasn’t one before and you haven’t had any issues…

If you’ve got a solid fixing into the masonry it’ll be fine. Or, cut out and put a noggin in if you’d rather. But I’d just crack on

That’s a cracking price if it’s really 60sqm.

Guessing their block paved patio may have bridged your dpc if there is one. Also, worth checking your roof to ensure there’s no water run off on that side. Might have a load of debris on it from trees, stopping it draining elsewhere. Bottom area of wall very visibly water affected on the outside…

Spring toggle type fixing

You could sister new joists level, alongside each existing, well fixed to existing. Can be less than 7” deep. Likely to be a lot less hassle. I’d be very sure the root cause of the wall dropping is 100% sorted beforehand tho.

On the washing machine side, can’t you just run a standpipe up the back of the machine (washing machines are normally a bit shallower than dishwashers aren’t they?) and right down the bottom, a couple of offsets to bring it out a bit to suit the 110mm, which the cut-off section at the bottom of...