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This kinda thing where it’s built in/cut into the brickwork. I guess for yours, if you’re matching an existing first floor level for knock through, it may well not land on a bed course so you’d have to cut it into the brick… I’ve never used them though so not sure what the options are.

I did the bearer plate on mine, as didn’t fancy chopping each joist out. No issues. But suspect it’s seen as the less robust method out of the two. If the existing wall’s got a cavity, the noise transfer issue isn’t really a concern either way.

Yeah it’s all very above board now, they don’t even pay cash…

Cheers all

Brill, that’s what I’m hoping

I’ve got a good amount of the stuff, and shedloads of lead, so deffo worth the trip I reckon. Weighed a far smaller amount in years ago and got maybe £70 ish.

I’ve got a few years worth of old copper pipe and fittings to go and weigh in. So far I’ve cut off all the brass/compression fittings and got them in a separate pile, leaving a load of copper pipe which only has end feed/solder joints. Any idea if that constitutes “clean copper” and is worth...

It ain’t going to be 20k unless you’re building a new garage. Can’t see it being north of 10k either from what’s been discussed so far.

I reckon clearance at the top for a lintel that can span that far might be tight, or a faff with the fascia in place etc. from a quick count of brick courses above dpc is it single skin? Would need to think how you’d finish the inside around where the inside of the frame lands…

All done, 4x 10 year old ikea pax 500mm wardrobes and one new one. Just needs new handles and painting. They love it, Thanks again for the pointers.

Sorry just to make this one even longer, that pointing style isn’t easy for someone who isn’t a good time served bricky (cut and struck?) if you’re bothered about how it looks just be aware

But deffo sbr (prime) the old concrete first whatever you use

Yeah I’d still go for tile adhesive. Or a sharp sand mortar mix. Or probably get away with plasterboard dab adhesive tbh. I tend to use whatever I’ve got available as I’m tight. But tile adhesive probably safest in terms of keeping it stuck down… Edit - assumes not a working fireplace. Probably...

I’d dab it down on rapidset tile adhesive, you don’t want the course aggregate of concrete. Assuming no signs of any damp on the old structural hearth.

Image _131307 shows it…

Can’t really tell from that pic, but the imperfections in your other pics look bad (eg the crazing which should deffo never be happening), unless the pic is making them out to be massively bigger than they are. Proof is when painted and light shone across it..

It should be flawless and you shouldn’t be able to feel any imperfections. You shouldn’t see any scrim. It’s way off. Google pics of newly plastered ceilings. The only possible mitigation is he was under the impression the ceiling to wall junction was going to never be seen, eg hidden by...

Yeah you wouldn’t want to go anywhere near down to 10mm, you shouldn’t need to either, it’s only a slight fall from the main floor level. I just scraped the top few (10 mill?) away around the trap and feathered it out. You can, later, adjust things with a bit of self levelling and/or your tile...

Re. the wet room I’ve done a couple, one on S&C screed, another on concrete. Both times, I just freehanded the semi dry screed with my trowel a half decent fall around a couple of foot of the trap, which was obviously already in place at that point. Both times, tanking and tiling were all good...

Don’t think there’s any point in a steel plate. You could shove dpm down into the cavity to form a trough and pour concrete in, up to the level of the top of the joists which is made a bit more awkward by the joists being there but guess it’s an option. But I’d check in more detail whether...