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I think in your case you can apply common sense and it’s acceptable as it is. Different if it was gas and copper, or a long horizontal run with no support. Another option is a bit of 18mm ish ply/mdf cut and pipe clips pre-screwed to it then glued or screwed (away from the cylinder) to the wall...

If the drives all slope towards the houses, there must be provision for draining into a surface drain somewhere, where does the nearest downpipe go? What’s the setup with all the neighbours houses?

I’d just do another one here, low as you can drill at a bit of an angle and not bother with any more. Unless it’s a plasterboard wall in which case go as low as you want with a stubby (or angled as said) screwdriver to make a hole, put a grey plug in and screw in

You need a proper vertical dpm, and/or a cavity, as well as drainage considerations give it’s retaining a substantial amount, I personally deffo wouldn’t just rely on blackjack for this but depends how it was designed. Not sure how the Timber frame on top is detailed but make sure you’re...

@foxhole nice … top one, are they extra tall ikea doors or something? Gotta be 2.3m+ ceiling ?

Cheers all FMT - that looks great @chirpychippy can’t see pic? I’ve got no issue cutting and fitting MDF doors etc (will be painted), it’s just the white melamine carcassing I’m hoping to cheat a bit with…

I want to do some basic fitted wardrobes for my lad, nothing too fancy, just most of the way along one wall, floor to ceiling. Is buying wardrobe base units (like you would a kitchen) a thing? then fitting plinths, panels to ceiling, and doors. That’d be a lot easier for me time wise than...

Suspect you’ll get it down a bit with more quotes but not a massive amount. How much is that coloured window?

I’ve only ever foamed bits of board, which it’s a game changer for, but not full boards. I can picture it being a right ball ache and totally unforgiving to tap them around to get them plumb, like you can with dab, as theres no grab with foam until it’s set. Is that the case? Guess completely...

Does it? Oops. That probably gives it a better tacky grab, noted

It’ll expand a bit, but you’ll need to have the board held in place while the foam sets anyway so it’ll work fine. It wont expand to the degree that it pushes the board out, if that’s what you mean

Sticking with my non-plasterboard guess.

Have you got access to it from outside? Would need to see pics..

Wow. Great to see you back fella.

Parapet / coping stones rings alarm bells…

I’ve never used the acoustic boards, as I’m a wimp and like to work with 6x3s. The most success I’ve ever had was a combo of rwa45, metal resilient bars and normal boards. Made a very noticeable difference

Cheers all

Cool, I’ll use whatever people suggest, doesn’t have to be the stuff I mentioned

Acoustic

What do you put in stud walls?