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That steel looks a bit thick for a lintel, so may be a steel with a welded angle. I suspect your answer to the lintel and the water penetration will need those blocks at the bearing to be removed to see what's going on. That work should have required building regulation approval.

That lintel does not appear to have a bearing on the external leaf, and if so, yes water can run down the opening reveals.

Or .... it is a potential Turkish barbers, Vietnamese nail bar and American candy shop. Money tree

You are overthinking. But if you are really concerned about noise, then trickle vents in isolation are not the only factor you should be considering.

I would question whether any such garden furniture is actually financially valuable. Welding cast is very specialised and difficult and prone to failure - especially at such high stress locations. Consider mechanical repairs instead, and careful design - not just a plate and a couple of...

The top, the hip, and looks like part of the eaves have past life end. They want replacing not refreshing.

He's back!

I bought a cheap two gun set "Preciva" from amazon a few years ago expecting then not to last long based on other more expensive ones i had previously, and I've not had to use the second gun yet. The first has lasted even with a can siting on it unused for months.

No one is going to get mesothelioma and die from removing undercloak from their verge at home.

Asbestos cement board has the least hazardous type of fibre and it's very well bound within the board. This is outside, and so any bit of fibre that might be released, is just going to float away. So the actual risk is low. And only from broken edges or where the mortar is prized away if it...

Looks like conversations on the Jubilee Line

You're not overcladding the barge board then? If you remove the barge board, the undercloak will fall off. Asbestos undercloak is fibre cement and would not be notifiable, however CAR 2012 is a workplace regulation and does not apply to DIY. So if removing, your only concern is transport and...

Yes, as above. You may even be able to use a slightly smaller size hanger if that works on a joint, or notch the joists. Pack the joint with slate afterwards, or a strong mix and make sure the joint is filled properly

A ground worker back in the day told me to add sharp sand to the grease to give it some body to stop this. I'm not sure if it works as I've never been back to all those manholes I was privileged to build when fresh out of college. :cautious: Plumbest, squarest, best bonded and weather struck...

https://www.planup.co.uk/ - try the free trial, but I'm not sure how free it is. I'm certain this company took over a brilliant floor plan app I used to use, as the format and controls look identical - if so, it's very easy to produce plans in short time. MS Visio is underrated and good for...

Should be in pink for the girlies

IIRC, all iron covers should be set in grease to prevent them rusting to the frame.

Masonry hangers and a grinder

Perhaps the reason you are in this situation now could be more sphincter related, than anything else?

Grain is too tight for [western red] cedar and it's not native to Bali. Unless they use cedar as a generic colloquialism for another local species. It looks a bit too tight and regular for iroko too. Looks like Sapele - which has that grain pattern and colour.