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Great, thanks Ian. Last question if you don't mind? With that as it is, the patio will still be quite shallow - I was planning on leaving a 250mm gravel border around the edge and then laying with a fall away from the building. Do you think that will suffice without any drainage?

Ah ok - so still dig down either side of the pipe and lay 75mm of hardcore, then just have bedding over the whole area including over the pipe? Thanks Ian

Hi all I'm looking to lay a new patio in the area you can see in the photo below which I've started digging out level. It looks to me like the level of the patio is going to be dictated by the drain pipe I've circled on the picture but this pipework is only 75mm below the DPC. So....with a...

Looks good to me, thanks very much everyone

Ok thanks. Just measured up and the pvc pipework leading to the existing elbow is 36mm and the chrome pipe is 35mm. If anyone has a link to a suitable compression elbow for these measurements that would be great because on first look I'm struggling to find one. Cheers Adam

All, I'm looking to install a new sink into an existing waste pipe and I don't have any plumbing experience. My only sticking point is connecting the pipework from the bottle trap into the waste. The first photo shows the chrome pipework from the bottle trap and the 2 seals and nut that...

Thanks for the advice fellas, had a bash at the rebate (started before I saw the last couple of posts). Turned out pretty well but like you said, very time consuming - will definitely go with your advice and try a stopper on the next frame (9 more to do as and when I can afford the timber!)...

One more thing.....when using the router on the wood, I've got the wood clamped down but that means I have to stop half way along the wood, move the clamps, then do the other half. Whenever I do that though I seem to get marks on the wood where the bit has taken a mm or 2 too much out. Is there...

Now I've got my shank issue sorted can any of you guys give me some hints please? I'm looking to rebate a length of oak to make a door casing. The door's 35mm thick so I've worked out I need to put a 35mm wide, 15mm deep rebate in the wood for the casing. I've had a practise run & while not too...

Thanks Nick, found a 1/4 collet at my local, think that's going to make life easier. Cheers Adam

Hi all I have owned a Black & Decker router for a while for the odd DIY job. I now want to rebate some oak to replace a door casing so needed to buy a suitable rebate bit. Just been to the local stores & only found 1/4 & 1/2 inch shank bits where's all the bits supplied with my router are...

That's great, thanks very much Adam

Hope you don't mind me piggy-backing your post Micky but I have a very similar need for advice so thought someone might be able to kill 2 birds..... I too have a lump of oak which I want to use above a fireplace in the cottage I'm renovating. Like Micky I don't want to loose any of the...

Can anyone give me any advice on what tools to use for putting up a field fence with wire keeping the tension nice and high? I intend on using round posts and want to have chicken wire along the bottom 3ft with a length of barbed wire along the bottom and a length of wire towards the top of...

Thanks for that Peaps, I will go with that. I'll take those Lime suppliers' details too pls. I've only worked with a standard render mix before - anything in particular to consider when using the lime putty instead?

This shows an example of the old external wall which is now internal and needs finishing. You can see the quirky shape to it which I'd like to keep. Another example of a wall to be finished: An example of a wall to be repaired, showing the thickness of the old render: This...

Hi all I am doing some work on an old limestone cottage and I'm after some advice on methods and materials to use in finishing the walls? I will be doing some repair work to previously rendered walls and also finishing some clear stone walls which were external but, after an extension are now...

For anyone interested, the mower is now in full working order....... As was picked up in the discussion I had more than one fault. The first was indeed the starter solenoid and replacing that saw the machine start up fine. The second was simply the central blade having well and truely...

Question 1: Is there a safety switch in the gearing (other than the one which requires the clutch dipping on start-up) which is preventing it from starting? Question 2: Does anyone have any ideas how to fix the problem?