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I concur, BM's excuse is that they don't want owners to be alarmed by slight movements of the needle driven by 'normal' fluctuations' in coolant temperture. Interestingly there were cars produced back in the 'fifties (the Nuffield organisation springs to mind) that weren't even equipped with...

Annoying but at safe, at least you won't cook the engine. Mine got very hot but I seem to have caught it in time, boiling can be fatal with a BMW. I always glance at the temp. gauge fairly often as the stupid thing is 'buffered' & doesn't move past normal until things are getting critical .. it...

Thermostats can be tricky blighters as well, back in January my old 5 series overheated about 3 miles from home, following a cold start. Recovered to our local garage. Thermo. suspected, but when tested by immersion in hot water it operated fine. Replaced as a matter of course, no further...

You've just jogged my memory as soon as I saw the name ! Yes JohnD that was the make I fitted. Admittedly they are only supporting a boot lid not a hatch but I've had no problems.

I've had a Nissens on my old Range Rover classic for over 4 years without issues, but that's only about 7K miles ago so perhaps it's storing up surprises for me.

o_O and I thought mine, at 68k over nearly 39 years, was low mileage ! Mind you there was one year in it's history (before my ownership) when it only covered 14 miles.

'Oh well, I'll just hope that the combination of a higher price than that mentioned by the OP & the fact that the rad. wasn't sourced through the 'bay might mean I've ended up with an item from the premium range.

Had a new rad. fitted to my old BMW earlier this year, aftermarket Mahle-Behr ordered from Germany by my usual supplier. You can guess the country of origin ;) Fingers crossed it lasts a few years.

Over the weekend I'll look back at my invoices & check the brand I bought & been quite satisfied with. Update : sorry can't find the invoice, all I know is that they were a well-known brand.

I got mine off the 'Bay by entering my car's make/model. Just look for a recognised brand, you get what you pay for.

Common practice with operators of luxury coaches, as in common with coach-built hearses these are expensive vehicles & are expected to have a long service life, so the operators didn't want the actual age being obvious to their clients.

Risky approach in IMO Not until you fit the used struts to the car will you know if they will support the weight of the tailgate, or even if they do how long for?

Always give my 28 year old BM a thrash before it's MOT (emissions test)

The 'cups' on the first ones I bought off the 'Bay wouldn't even clip over the body mountings, so they were returned for full refund.

Nothing wrong with aftermarket items, but you get what you pay for .. guess how I know (& my boot-lid is lighter than a hatch)

I wonder if these anomalies are due to the cars being designed as LHD & then converted to RHD? Back in 1986 my ex. bought a new Lada Riva that had an uncomfortable accelerator position due to it being close to the wheel arch, whereas in LHD configuration the pedal would have been on the right...

WTF, can't be good for your hips/lower back :unsure:

That's some disparity in wear, never encountered anything like it in my 62 years of car ownership. Suspension problems, vehicle design or driving style?

I don't bother, my old 5 series (RWD) wears it's tyres very evenly. After 24K miles the Michelins still have at least 5mm tread depth. Interestingly the current industry advice seems to be that the best rubber should be fitted to the rear, regardless of whether the car is FWD/RWD nb. my old RR...

Depends on the manuf. Some brands are ok with E10 even though built much earlier, BMW for example.