The study of a radiator

Mahle-Behr is all over ebay. For the E46, there is the cheaper standard one and a premium-line one. I am guessing the materials are thicker on the premium and more able to resist bumps. Since it isn't OEM, a Nissen one might be no worse. Nissen has a single model, presumably matching the premium-line one, but has discounted offers.
'Oh well, I'll just hope that the combination of a higher price than that mentioned by the OP & the fact that the rad. wasn't sourced through the 'bay might mean I've ended up with an item from the premium range.
 
Mahle-Behr is all over ebay. For the E46, there is the cheaper standard one and a premium-line one. I am guessing the materials are thicker on the premium and more able to resist bumps. Since it isn't OEM, a Nissen one might be no worse. Nissen has a single model, presumably matching the premium-line one, but has discounted offers.
I have a Nissen radiator on my old Alfa. It's nowhere near as good as the original. I'd avoid them in the future.

Weight isn't necessarily an advantage for a radiator - often the opposite. Thinner-walled tubes dissipate heat faster.
 
I have a Nissen radiator on my old Alfa. It's nowhere near as good as the original. I'd avoid them in the future.

Weight isn't necessarily an advantage for a radiator - often the opposite. Thinner-walled tubes dissipate heat faster.
I've had a Nissens on my old Range Rover classic for over 4 years without issues, but that's only about 7K miles ago so perhaps it's storing up surprises for me.
 
I've had a Nissens on my old Range Rover classic for over 4 years without issues, but that's only about 7K miles ago so perhaps it's storing up surprises for me.

No, the cooling was noticeably worse on my Alfa from the moment I turned the key. (Well, OK, the moment the thermostat opened, after the moment I turned the key...)! :giggle: It just doesn't cool as well as the old leaking one did. That was an "old skool" copper matrix with brass header tanks, soldered together. The Nissens one is the modern plastic header tanks and aluminium matrix. I think it has just been designed down to a cost. It has one less row of tubes than the original one.
 
No, the cooling was noticeably worse on my Alfa from the moment I turned the key. (Well, OK, the moment the thermostat opened, after the moment I turned the key...)! :giggle: It just doesn't cool as well as the old leaking one did. That was an "old skool" copper matrix with brass header tanks, soldered together. The Nissens one is the modern plastic header tanks and aluminium matrix. I think it has just been designed down to a cost. It has one less row of tubes than the original one.
Thermostats can be tricky blighters as well, back in January my old 5 series overheated about 3 miles from home, following a cold start. Recovered to our local garage.
Thermo. suspected, but when tested by immersion in hot water it operated fine.
Replaced as a matter of course, no further problems over the past 1300m.
 
Thermostats can be tricky blighters as well, back in January my old 5 series overheated about 3 miles from home, following a cold start. Recovered to our local garage.
Thermo. suspected, but when tested by immersion in hot water it operated fine.
Replaced as a matter of course, no further problems over the past 1300m.

I tend to have the opposite problem - all mine always seem to fail open!
 
I tend to have the opposite problem - all mine always seem to fail open!
Annoying but at safe, at least you won't cook the engine. Mine got very hot but I seem to have caught it in time, boiling can be fatal with a BMW.
I always glance at the temp. gauge fairly often as the stupid thing is 'buffered' & doesn't move past normal until things are getting critical .. it was the warning gong that alerted me, right in the midst of 2 lanes of peak period traffic !
 
Annoying but at safe, at least you won't cook the engine. Mine got very hot but I seem to have caught it in time, boiling can be fatal with a BMW.
I always glance at the temp. gauge fairly often as the stupid thing is 'buffered' & doesn't move past normal until things are getting critical .. it was the warning gong that alerted me, right in the midst of 2 lanes of peak period traffic !

I bloody hate that! "Managed" temperature gauge readings. The wife's Skoda has it. It also has a "trick" water pump that's designed to speed up engine warmup in the cold. The idea is quite clever - there's a moveable collar round the blades of the water pump. When cold, the shroud surrounds the blades so the water can't circulate. As the temperature warms up, a solenoid valve opens and the shroud retracts, using water pressure generated by the pump, allowing the pump to start circulating the water. You can guess which position they fail in, when they stick...!

So whereas I might have noticed it reading "a little hot" on some runs, the gauge stayed resolutely in the centre and then all of a sudden, "BANG"! Right into the red! :mad: What's the point of having a gauge and then adding software to make it behave like a warning light?
 
So whereas I might have noticed it reading "a little hot" on some runs, the gauge stayed resolutely in the centre and then all of a sudden, "BANG"! Right into the red! :mad: What's the point of having a gauge and then adding software to make it behave like a warning light?
I concur, BM's excuse is that they don't want owners to be alarmed by slight movements of the needle driven by 'normal' fluctuations' in coolant temperture.

Interestingly there were cars produced back in the 'fifties (the Nuffield organisation springs to mind) that weren't even equipped with coolant temperature gauges from the factory & I drove AEC coaches with underfloor engines in the early 'seventies similarly (not) equipped & just had a warning light on the dash, which was universally ignored by drivers in hot weather.
 
Back
Top