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Doesn't look like there is any issue, its just forward thinking really now the ceiling is down. The ridge beam looks to be the purlin reused from lower down where the dorma was built. The dorma roof joists (looking at video they may be 7x2) appear to be stopping any sagging

Old Loft conversion done 40 years ago with Dorma. No Steel, all timber construction. Loft room needed refurbishing, don't think it's ever been done since it was constructed so stripped the room back. A few problems to sort outThere is a chunky timber ridge beam (in red on the uploaded drawing)...

Thanks all. I do know about the staggered timber partitions. I can tell by looking at the floor that there was a concrete block 4" wall in there originally which was taken out to open up the space, which I'll just reinstate if its better for sound insulation!

Hi, I need to partition a room off. the room isn't huge so space is at a premium. I know there isn't much in it, but wanted to know what offers better soundproofing - 4" blocks plastered or 4" timber studwork with plasterboard ? Thanks in advance

I did drop into TP. It's not similar to the plastering sand they sell in East London! bit extreme but may have to just bring a bulk bag up in the back of the pickup

Thanks, locally there is only the one main independent merchant who don't seem to do it and the chains sheds, will drop in tomorrow not sure why TP is more expensive than everywhere else

In East London, the local merchants sell a plastering sand for external rendering which is light yellow, very fine and soft which gives a creamy consistency for rendering doesn't crack and no need for adding anything. In Peterborough some way away I'm getting some work done from someone I've...

Have an old loft conversion done about 1976 with dorma - not quite the full 9m width of the property. I have the original plans, it was done by a builder who owned the property and carried out extensive alterations. I was updating a room below the loft, and investigating the dipping ceiling of...

I have a Moisture Detector - cost around £20, very good at showing damp and where is is worse (sometimes where it is not obvious). Finding the source can be difficult - water obviously spreads. I've found nearly all the ground floor internal walls I was checking have problems... Multitude of...

Yes builder will be, but its whether its worth the time to scratch it up so the render gets good adhesion? or that the masonry paint is so well bonded that it can be done straight on top

Wanted to get the front of the house rendered. It was cladded, that'd been pulled off and the brickwork is damaged so best just render. Its been painted with some heavy duty masonary paint which in a majority of the place is stuck fast and will not come off. One builder a while ago was saying...

I've seen another post elsewhere saying screw in brick ties are needed to tie the bricked up chimney to the existing wall. Is this ott or recommended? I haven't started yet so it can be done

Thanks - should have paid attention when I've helped builders before! I'll take the hearth out, I've done them in my old house. Whole room is being refurbed will patch up the ceiling / floors

Taken out a chimney breast on the ground floor. It's previously been taken all out upstairs and already supported in the loft. It's an external 9inch solid brick wall. Where the lined chimney flue is going up the wall, it's stepped back so it's single brick thickness to the outside wall. Would...

fair point. There is a big car park locked at night, 2.8m height restricted archway so nearly everything gets under. To be fair it is their own fault leaving valuables out, or not parking in the car park. one side of the road heading towards town has the weirdos, just trying to do our best for...

Thanks to all. I suppose the other thing to come to mind is a talking pir motion sensor on timer between midnight and 6am to say about cctv being in operation.. I guess it would put someone off hearing a voice, downsides it would trigger with the odd person passing in the early hours, and it...

Thanks for all replies. I own the whole place (or mostly the bank, partly mine lol) so having work done isn't a problem. So what they should have done when ever they put it in, was site the wall between 2 of the floor / ceiling joists.. My plan after doing up this room was to redo the room...

Yes sorry it's built off the floor boards not on the joist. It just concerns me that the solid wall has movement, and is it going to continue to drop. I believe it to be a 4 inch thick wall

Don't know what Muppet decided to do this or how it got missed by building regs during conversion. One of the other walls upstairs has an rsj beneath it why couldn't they put another one in!

The worst case scenario in my mind, as I stay in the adjoining flat... is the solid bathroom / room wall to come out, replace the bowed joist (maybe as 2 2x7) and rebuild as a lighter stud work.. but its going to obviously add a lot of work and be messy... and I guess need to build to right...