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So I started the boiler with the photocell in my hand and then showed it light once fired so i could see the flame and it looks clear. Sometimes the fan spins just for a few seconds to start with so I will replace the start capacitor anyway but pretty sure this isn't the main problem.

I put a spare photocell in and it ran for a couple of hours great and then started playing up. I am not sure the HT leads are in the way are they. I took a pic with the torch shining down where the photocell is to see if the path was OK. You can just see if you look carefully? If I pull the...

It's a Bentone DKO 970. The plumber had a spare control box he leant me and it did the same. I have put the old photocell back in and will try that. You can just make out the tip of photocell in this photo. The plumber said you can sometimes move the electrode holder thing and there is an allen...

another observation is that often when it does fire, it will run for a few seconds and then lockout. So I can hear the motor/fan, electode click, pump solenoid, fire and then dead. Sound like fuel supply? Maybe disconnect fire valve and check flow outside?

Is it worth checking the oil flow? Is there an easy (basic way). I just cracked the nut off at the bottom of the pump to bleed it and seems have good pressure?

Yeah. Spot on just over 2000 omhs

Yeah It is producing spark OK. It will sometimes run for an hour OK so will that rule out oil flow issues??? I have just: 1.Opened the pump to see if there is any dirt- it was clean. 2.Looked down the blast tube and made sure the HT leads were not blocking the photocell - there doesn't appear...

I think it's Bentone.

Interesting. I have checked the UF value of the capacitor and it gave a reading of 1.9 and the rating is 3UF so maybe this it as I think the tolerance is 5%?

I think the motor is spinning OK mostly? I mean when I press the reset button I can hear it. I can check the capacitor though so thanks.

worcester greenstar utility 18/25 oil constantly locking out before it runs. I am having problems with the oil burning boiler again. It is locking out all the time and has been for few weeks. The boiler will sometimes fire and run but more often than not it won't fire at all - tries for a few...

This is what i thought but without the bits to hand it was difficult to picture how it would not end up really wonky but it will be boxed in mostly so not really important as long as the box isn't huge.

Hi I need to box in the pipe work for a Durgo valve in the bathroom. The pipe needs to extend our a bit to clear the insulation board wall. Would I just use 2 x bends with some pipe between them. Any idea what degree bends I need? Thanks

No not quite. This post wouldn't exist if that was the case!

I did. I discussed with him and then I ran the cables. He checked it, I boarded it. I don't want to do the guy a disservice as some of the confusion is most likely coming from me and my interpretation. I spoke to him earlier and he was OK with a spur if we had to do it. His suggestion was to add...

I might just loop a cable down for a spur and see what he says then. Is it preferable to not have the washer ands dryer on a spur or does it not really matter?

:mrgreen: Ha. Well he's the boss when it comes to signing off.

I had a quick google and it's turning up cooker switches, I don't think you mean this? Do you have a link? https://www.toolstation.com/click-mode-45a-dp-cooker-switch-and-socket/p11706 thanks

The electrician said to me that there are not supposed to be any spurs on the new build!? That socket isolator sounds good. I will look into that.

Hi, Thanks for the replies. I would prefer to have a socket under the bench if possible. There is not much cable left to clear the worktop and for the electrician to extend/junction or whatever. The "feed" from the CU goes from right, up to feed the one on the to left rocky. I have taken another...